Share
I can't really answer that for you, @mikebarker. Two diluted layers will provide a level of water resistance, which would probably do the job. However, if you want the surfaces fully waterproof, you'd likely have to do a third diluted layer so it's completely opaque. I'd want the sheets to look at least as dark as the joists I coated in the image below.
Mitchell
@MitchellMc thanks for the example! That's helpful. I think these look pretty good?
I can do an extra coat if I need to, will just need to grab some more paint as I used nearly all of a litre doing these.
Hi @mikebarker
It would definitely help putting adhesive on your flooring as it will help keep the panel down and add support to the flooring frame.
Eric
Good morning chaps! Happy to report I've got the walls and my rafter beam up, rafters and batons next! You'll notice I've also added a spot for a window that I've ordered.
Few questions:
1. I need to remove the bottom plate where the door will go so I can brush any pooling water off the floor. I have been covering it with a tarp but the STRUCTAflor instructions advise against this due to moisture buildup. But I'd like to install something over the edge of the newly exposed floor in the doorway as this will be high traffic, could you advise something to use? I figured some kind of non slip flashing would do but not sure where to start.
2. I think I'm going to go with Colorbond cladding for the walls and roof (Unless you think this is a poor idea). I'm concerned about how to deal with the edges around the doors and windows. What if the peak of the panel lands where the opening edge of a door or window, if that makes sense? Do you put flashing around all edges like that? Also, for the peaks of the gable ends, should I try and get sheets that are tall enough and just cut of the excess, or do I need some zl flashing for the joins between the full panel and the triangular bit?
3. Lastly, do I need the corrugated form filler on all edges of the colourbond that are exposed? Like along near the joists at the bottom? Or do you put flashing on there too?
Thanks!
It's great to see your progress, @mikebarker, and awesome to see @Dave-1 has jumped on your questions.
Something like this Brutus 1.2m Black Aluminium Stair Tread could also suit the edge of the sheet.
If having the peak on those edges will be an issue, then you can cut your sheets so you start with a trough and work away from the door or window. However, you'll still have to deal with the peaks at the top of the door and the top and bottom of the window.
The foam fill is predominantly used to prevent water from blowing back under the sheets, so it will be used under the ridge capping, and anywhere water could be blown in.
Please let us know if you have further questions.
Mitchell
Morning @Dave-1,
1. The final flooring surface is just what it is! Or is that a bad idea? Options? That nosing looks great though.
2. Oh Great! I'm really not looking forward to this part of the build but that has made me feel better about that element.
3. Main thing is keeping it dry but really not a fan of spiders so the less the better! I'll be using sarking so some protection there.
Speaking of the eves, currently I have an overhang on the sides but do I even need it? What is the benefit? I'm wondering if I should just save myself some hassle and shorten the rafters and just leaving enough space between the edge of the wall and the fascia board to fit the colourbond.
Morning @mikebarker
Floor is good as is, I was thinking more along the lines of "if" you were going to add anything to the floor.
Always, and I mean Always want eaves 
It keeps water off the walls, it keeps sun off the walls so lessons the heat of the day beating down on the walls so much. And removes that top of the wall worry about water entry.
European houses and modern homes have been heading the way of no eaves to maximise the floor area. I still think its a loss loss situation but thats an entirely seperate debate
Dave
You might also like
