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A single garage was sacrificed to create a formal front entrance and significantly enhance the street appeal of this home.
The project
I bought this house that had the front entrance on a second level at the back of the house. Obviously not ideal, especially when it came to deliveries. The only option in creating a new front entrance was to sacrifice the single garage. This is how how did it.
Steps
Step 1
The ground in front had to be dug out below the concrete slab and a drain installed across the front to ensure no water ingress.
Then the roller door was removed.
Step 2
I ordered a 1100mm solid timber door preinstalled to a jamb with side glazing. Once that arrived I was able to frame out the old garage opening to suit.
I needed a hand from a mate with this project in various stages to help lift and position the new door into place.
Step 3
Around the same time I was also preparing the external brick work for rendering as they were not flat and needed to be hand ground down.
I fixed blue-board to the out entrance frame which was to be inlayed with a feature stone tile. Then tested the entrance with my first little visitor.
Step 4
With the drainage installed and approved I built a small entrance deck leading up the front door and landscaped each side.
Step 5
With the external entrance part-finished, it was time to start on the internal space by cladding the brick with plasterboard and building a dividing wall within the old garage. Behind which will eventually be a small living space as part of a new guest bedroom.
Step 6
I wanted to open the staircase up leading to the 2nd main level of the house as it was very narrow.
I was inspired by some designs I had seen, and came up with a timber-slated feature that I made from Tassie Oak. Once made, I then cut and prepared the staircase frame to accomodate.
I underestimated how heavy this was and called on my mate to give me a hand to install it. Then I was able to finish the walls.
Step 7
The left hand back wall was plasterboard which I finished with a Deluxe texture paint. The right side was MDF panelling, allowing me to fix 19mm x 42mm DAR Pine to.
Step 8
I mounted timber blocks to the centre of the wall to fix a round feature miterer to give the impression it was floating off the rear wall. I had pre-run a cable to the back ready for an LED light strip that I wrapped around behind the mirror.
Step 9
Next step was to tile over the old concrete floor with large format tiles.
Then install the skirting, architraves and paint the walls.
Step 10
Last job was to fit a new feature light and the project was completed.
Tools and materials
Materials used in the project:
- 90mm x 35mm Pine
- 90mm x 45mm Pine
- 10mm Plasterboard
- 45mm x 120mm Tasmanian Oak boards
- Screw in concrete anchors
- 1200mm x 2400mm 10mm Plywood panels
- Blue board fibre cement sheet
- Construction adhesive
- LED light strip
- 12v transformer and cables
- TAPO smart plug
- Deluxe effects paint.
Tools used in the project:
- Mitre saw
- Circular saw
- Reciprocating saw
- Drill
- Impact driver
- Hammer drill
- Crowbars
- Hammer
- Tape measure
- Spirit levels
- 16Ga Brad nailer.
More inspiration for your home
Workshop member Dinny dramatically transformed the front facade of their tired 1950s house by painting the weatherboards, windows, door, downpipes and balcony.
When renovating a typical 1980s suburban Australian home, the Bunnings Make It Happen team decided to clad the exterior, as did Bunnings Workshop member Donna with weatherboard cladding over a brick veneer home.
Get more inspiration from 10 ways to improve your home's street appeal and 10 different ways to use a garage.
Congratulations @Nailbag
Shaking my head at the level of work and even above that the level of detail that you do. Impressed no end 
Love it!
Dave
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