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Morning @mikebarker
Mmmmmm been going through your post and the pictures. (Half asleep still lol)
The floor Joist are 3m long, Are you going to put timber the other way before the floorboards or straight on these joists?
Id probarly like the Tuffblocks to be under the corners of the shed. The structure above transfers its weight down through the posts and studs, I am thinking id want the corners supported for sure.
The spacing of the blocks will depend on the bearers and joists if you are using them or setting on the bearers themselves.
You can always "notch" the timber to loose that 4mm of timber (I have done that before with the stirrup posts for the deck) Multiple 5mm depth cuts across the end and then chisel and mallet 
Its actually a pleasure to do and I really felt that I acclomlished something when I did it.
As to the skids idea, If you ar using the Tuffblocks, I dont think I would. They should support the frame and weight with teh spacing (I am not sure f the spacing as I havnt use dthem before but may after seeing how you go )
Will have a coffee and wake a little more and think about it.
Dave
Thanks for clarifying so rim joist = bearer?
The pressure treated 90x90 posts would be in direct contact with the gravel. An appeal of doing it this way is that it'll be simpler to level the 3 posts. Levelling 25+ TuffBlocks is going to be fiddly.
The TuffBlocks are supposed to be a replacement for the concrete ones. Also, the concrete ones are quite high and I'm already pushing it with how high my structure is. I don't want to go over 3m otherwise I'll need a permit. How many of those would you expect to use?
Hi @mikebarker,
If you want to achieve the floating look, I'd add an extra joist and have the floor extend further out than the wall. It's fine to counterlever joists on a deck, but on a structure like a shed with additional weight, I'd want that weight bearing down directly over the Tuffblocks as per the image below.
On the left and right, it's fine to have the structure extend to the ends as the joists are a continuous span, but the top and bottom worry me as it's just the fixings supporting the weight; that's why I suggest extending out further for the floating look.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Hello @MitchellMc!
Applying your comment "On the left and right, it's fine to have the structure extend to the ends as the joists are a continuous span" to my design. So would this be ok? (Apologies for the terrible mockup) - essentially inset at the front and back. Note, I will inset as little as I can. They will be close to the rim joists as I can get them, this isn't about it appearing to float 🙂
I'm just curious, gathering as much understanding as I can before I proceed so thanks everyone as always for fielding my questions.
One last question: What are your thoughts on forgetting the blocks and using 3 or 4 90x90 treated posts as skids underneath the joists as shown a couple of posts back? All the tutorials I see use this method when on a gravel base like I have. It will be so much easier to level it all as I'll be able to level the posts before putting the joists on.
That's fine having the supports as you've pictured @mikebarker.
You'll see the method of posts or sleepers directly on gravel and then joists on those mainly from American guides. That's not really something I've seen a lot of over here. I can't see many reasons why it wouldn't work; it's just not something I've seen implemented before. One thing that would concern me is the timber wicking water up from the ground through capillary action into the structure. You'd certainly need to paint the skids with bitumen paint or install a vapour barrier to prevent this.
Mitchell
Hi @mikebarker,
I can't see any reason why you couldn't switch the roof's orientation. It does make sense to have the runoff to the sides instead of the front.
Mitchell
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