How to securely mount vintage curtain rod holders?

[denisl]

Hi community,

We just moved house and found absolutely stunning vintage curtain rods in the garage and we would love to use them.

Trouble is attaching the rod holders to plasterboard (no studs near desired mount location) securely:

Looking at the back of the holder, it seems two slightly protruding screws are required (perhaps bad assumption) for holder to slide into and down. 

I am able to get a decent and secure screw for the bottom hole using https://www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-nylon-wallmate-plasterboard-anchor-10-pack_p2260973 and https://www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-10g-x-32mm-black-ankascrew-10-pack_p0261459. Note the screw is oversized for the anchor so the protruding screw is not loose. The top hole of the holder is a bit smaller and the screw head used for bottom hole is too big. Using a smaller screw has proven troublesome because unless it's screwed tightly into the anchor, it is loose and the rod holder shakes about.

What's a better way to do this? It feels like I am using inappropriate tools / methods.

Thank you in advance

Denis 

[EricL]

Hello @denisl 

You've nearly solved half of the puzzle, all you need is a screw that will fit the top portion but be long enough so that it bites into the wall mate. I suggest bringing the timber holder with you to the store and test the Zenith 8G x 50mm Zinc Plated Self Tapper Pan Head Screws or the Pinnacle 5 x 50mm Black Round Timber Screw - 20 Pack and see if they will fit into the timber fitting. You can also test it with the wall mate to see if it is long enough that it will anchor itself.

One other method you try is to use the Ramset Nylon WallMate Anchor that come with its own screws. There is also the Ramset Nylon WallMate Mini Anchor which is a smaller version of the WallMates that come with smaller screws.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Dave-1]

Good Morning @denisl 

The information @EricL has given is spot on

With the fitting out of the screws, I was wondering if you used a small piece of plywood, (4mm thick? nothing super thick) With this you make a template up so you get the spacing of the screw heads perfect as you can keep practicing to get both screws to support that holder. The screws should protude through the thin ply, Once the distance is worked out you can push that against the plaster and it will give you two dots for installing the anchors in.

With your jig now sorted including how far to have the screws screwed in, Find something that is the same height as the diosatance from surface of the screw head to the plaster. Such as a pencil by the look of it. Then when you screw the screws directly you know that the sweet spot is a pencils height from the wall.

As a side note I have mounted the curtain supports on the window trim, screwing through the trim into the timber behind it. That way I have had no concerns about it getting pulled down.

Dave

[denisl]

Thank you so much for your advice @EricL and @Dave-1 !!

I will give it a shot.

Warm Regards,

Denis

[Nailbag]

Hi @denisl 

With all due respect to both yourself and @EricL I personally am not a fan those Wallmate anchors for securing anything thats not static like a curtain rod. Yes, they are a very easy fastener to use, they are also very problematic. Firstly they can't be screwed flat to the wall without compressing and bulging the plasterboard around it. This results in what you're fixing to not fitting flush to the wall. The screw you then use has to be exactly the right type in size and thread patten if not supplied. If not, as you tighten the screw, the Wallmate will spin and rotate past its grip point and become unusably loose. It will then simply come out with the screw still stuck in it, especially the plastic ones. This leaves a 12mm hole to deal with. And lastly, they will work themselves loose as you draw open and close your curtain. 

My recommendation is to use a hollow wall anchor that grip from behind the plasterboard. Once fastened they stay in place allowing you to remove the screw as needed to fix the item to the wall. In your case, screws with the head slightly raised to slot into the large open section of the keyhole in the back of the rod-holders. Then slide them down. It's a matter of trial and error in making small adjustments to the screw head height until the holder fits very snuggly against the wall. It can't be loose. Taking a rod holder into the store will help decide on the right screw head size.

Finding timber to fix curtains to is always the best unless they are lightweight static. @Dave-1 suggestion is a great suggestions should the hollow wall anchors not be suitable. His idea of small polices of thin ply could be fixed to the wall using a heavier duty anchor like these ones. Then use suitable screws for the rod holders.

And just in case you might still be able to find timbers behind the wall, this is what it looks like frame-wise.

Nailbag

[Dave-1]

Morning @denisl and @Nailbag 

The ply was more for marking out the holes needed. I do agree with @Nailbag about some of the them being problematic sometimes, sometimes is the word and yes much better at supporting static weight. 

I have an 80kg old school LCD panel that has an "touchscreen" ability added to the front of the tv, on a wall that has hollow cavity and brick. Ive used the anchors that @Nailbag has mention plus ramset anchors. The static weight is the difference as the tv unit does not move. Curtains will.

I stll like the idea of fastening the curtain rail to the windows trim and then through the trim into the timber studs behind it. You can see the studs in Nailbags drawing. If the trim around the window is too small in width then maybe you could replace the trim with a wider one? Same idea using the ply for markout and screw head spacing height tho.

Dave

[denisl]

Thank you so much @Nailbag for joining in and contributing with your advice! I have done a couple windows yesterday, however due to their length being just slightly less than rod length I had no choice but to use the studs. The fit is very sturdy! 

I did a shorter window (same length rods) before asking this question, and wanted the rod holders spaced as far as possible, that's why I did not use the studs. I will probably redo that window to use the studs behind the window frame to be honest. We have little ones who will pull on curtains. The static vs non-static weight explanation for the wallmates was very insightful, and will save me a lot of trouble in the long run.

I did consider using hollow wall anchor as suggested, but I thought that while the anchor will be very motion-resistant, the screw itself may come out gradually as the rod moves about because it's not tightened fully. Would that be correct?

Thank you guys!!

Warm Regards,

Denis

[Nailbag]

Hi @denisl 

The screws shouldn't be able to work themselves loose for two reasons. Firstly there is no form of movement to allow them to unscrew, but mainly it's important that you're using either the original supplied anchor screw or one with the same thread. Then if the head of the screw is protruding just enough to allow the rod holder to "firmly" fit, then there should be no movement. I have used this method myself several times without issue for rod curtains.

Nailbag