How to build a window cover for privacy and protection from the elements?

[BoeingFan]

Howdy all,

I'd like to build a solid wood panel window cover (just think of a rectangular piece of wood e.g. 1000h * 750w) that can:

• be flat against the window to protect from hail when need be, and/or
• can angle out from the bottom like an awning (hinge?), and/or
• can move squarely out from the window allowing for air but blocking sun/neighbours, and/or
• be able to open on either side in order to catch the breeze and drive it into the house from the left or the right

I have one little old window in the kitchen which only opens on one side, which was the catalyst for this post.

Cheers,
Jason

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @BoeingFan 

Paint the hell out of those chip board sheets  Jason especially the ends as  water  can soak in and your a done chicken dinner ,   zero  gaps in  paint,   Honestly use  painted ply instead save the chip board for indoors.

If you want buy the right angle brackets x2 with out the angled support and bend them to desired angle.

[BoeingFan]

@JewelleryrescueOK, I'll park the chipboard and get some of the plywood. Is this the sort that you recommend?: 1220 x 610 9mm plywood

I'm not keen on the idea of getting a bracket and bending it, it would be just my luck I couldn't bend it, it would break, or they wouldn't be equally angled. I think I'll use strong hinges instead, and I'm going to investigate that gas strut stays idea further because I think it's a great idea.

[BoeingFan]

Hi @Jewelleryrescue ,

With regards to the marine plywood, is there are a thickness you suggest? I was thinking =>9mm would work well? Also, I'm hoping the same Dulux Weather Shield paint as the rest of the house is suitable, is that sufficient?

Thanks,

Jason

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @BoeingFan

9 mm ply should a good thickness  not to heavy  and not to light flapping in the  wind etc and it dosnt need to be marine ply as that is super expensive

Just regular ply the price will vary with the final finish quality of the ply so you decide on  finish quality vs price.  I would invest in 4L all in one under coat as ply will soak up many paints and need more coats So False economy.  A single all in one under coat will seal the ply for many years and help smooth off any inperfections all of those brands pretty good.  Thats where  the air  strut works as a bonus as it physically attached to window and shutter.  In case of a freak willy willy. 4 litre is better economy as your middle of reno so it wont go to waste

Strength: To  make the ply more ridged with out the thinkness on the  outside screw a flat pine rectangle squre against to outer edges of the  ply like a picture frame. Decoration: You can add some  more  19mm x 19mm in the  middle and make your window shutter look ribbed or traditional multi pane look and less plain as  you wish.

42 x 19mm 2.4m DAR Pine Premium  I/N: 8401458   $11.23

I  do like Dulux 'sWeathershield  guaranteed as a stand out .  Formulated with MaxiFlex™ technology, it expands and contracts with the surface, and is guaranteed not to peel, flake or blister for as long as you live in your home*.  I am not dismising other brands here I know they are fantastic too. My house is Tuabums and its 22 years internal and out old not a  blemish,  British paint  less cost well you be waiting a long time for any to fail. I am swithching to dulux re  performance GT.

Hinges  those ones your proposed are internal hinges and will rust up in 2 years  

Try Or equivalent. or longer 300mm

Pinnacle 150mm Galvanised Strap Hinge With Brass Pin - 2 Pack   I/N: 4230235  $10.50

https://www.bunnings.com.au/pinnacle-150mm-galvanised-strap-hinge-with-brass-pin-2-pack_p4230235

Something  no one mentioned is if the shutter is closed it will rattle and bang if not latched. So  I would ultimatly use some foam under the closed shutter (no need to buy now later at need )  This stuff is made  for outdoors and quite cheap and  versaitle

Bastion 75mm x 10mm x 25m Adhesive Back Expansion Joint Foam  I/N: 0291591 $31.74

https://www.bunnings.com.au/bastion-75mm-x-10mm-x-25m-adhesive-back-expansion-joint-foam_p0291591

Latch  so many latches.  most look  ugly  some are lock able,  some  can have a padlock (incase  those mossies get smarter and bigger.)

But old school simple  cheap and they work only zinc  plated but ok re rust. These ones sit inside and are mostly hidden.

Taskmaster 47mm Zinc Plated Box Roller Catch - 2 Pack I/N: 0290505   $2.90

https://www.bunnings.com.au/taskmaster-47mm-zinc-plated-box-roller-catch-2-pack_p0290505

Later you may need an external handle to help open your shutter but  think about that later as you need it.  Too many handle  choices.  Can you handle it? lol  

[BoeingFan]

Hi All,

I'm still procrastinating on the window coverings, but after last nights wind, I think it's best to look into them seriously. So, what I have come up with is this, I hope I can make it simple enough.

• Imagine a rectangle in a portrait rotation.
• The top horizontal bar is flush between the ends of the two vertical side bars.
• The top horizontal bar has 2-3 hinges allowing the window frame to open from the bottom outward.
• The bottom horizontal bar is, say, 3 inches from the bottom of the vertical side bars.
• There are is a hole drilled horizontally in the bottom of each side bar halfway between the end of the side bar and to where the bottom horizontal bar is.
• Two slide bolts are attached to the bottom of the structure window frame, not the window cover, and each slide bolt can engage through each side bar to securely retain the cover against the structure.
• There are another 2 side rail sections screwed to the structure wall, with at least one horizontal hole in each.
• Wooden rails/struts are bolted using non-threaded bolts and split pins to the window cover frame just above the lower horizontal bar.
• Non threaded bolts and split pins then secure the strut to the structure side bars.

I will try to draw an image by hand but this seems to work in my head, no doubt there's something I've not thought of? I'd appreciate your input, please.

Thanks,

Jason

[JacobZ]

Hi @BoeingFan,

Having joined the conversation late in the piece, I reviewed everything up to this point and can't see any obvious holes in your plan.

Once you've uploaded an image of your plan, it might be easier to see anything that you might have missed.

Let me know if there is anything else I can assist with in the meantime.

Jacob

[BoeingFan]

G'day @JacobZ 

Forgive the hand drawn image, I don't have any fancy software Basically it is a rectangle frame, with the lower bar about 3 inches up from the end of the side bars. This is to facilitate holes for sliding bolts. The issues here is that I don't know if the slide bolts will be too flush with the house and the hole required in the side bars will be nearly right to the edge. I could always put spacing blocks behind the bolts but it's not as neat.

There are two screws in both side bars to secure the lower horizontal bar. Just above those two screws is another hole which will be used to secure a timber strut running back to the house. Having something strong but removable here is required, be it a nut and bolt, or preferably something I can do up and undo without any tools would be ideal.

I'm thinking that H4 DAR beams will do the trick nicely, and the marine ply will fit squarely over the top left to top right, and down as far as the bottom rung.

Then I will caulk and paint it. This is a window cover for shade and also closable for storms.

[BoeingFan]

I hope you're well buddy!

I'm finally going to start this project this weekend after all that wind last week, and with August just around the corner.

[EricL]

Hi @BoeingFan 

Don't forget to update your window cover project. I'm looking forward to seeing the progress photos of your window cover! 

Eric

[BoeingFan]

G'day @EricL ,

I checked out Jason's how to choose the right timber page, and decided that H4 might be the best option to choose given this is an external covering, potentially exposed to significant rain events. I am going to paint it, this is true, but I found it difficult to find any appropriately sized DAR H4 at Bunnings. They seem to be all square or round posts etc.. This H3 Outdoor Framing Timber is the size I'd like; do you offer it in H4? If not, can H3 be painted, is it DAR, and is it an appropriate level of treatment for this use?

Thanks