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Hello! I am obsessed with these blocks, but unsure how to build a wall with them? previous blocks I have seen have a channel for rebar, but the bunnings ones are flat on all sides, do you just use mortar and that’s it?
Hello @bodega
Let me tag @Jewelleryrescue to make them aware of your questions.
In regards to the concrete for the post and footings, I propose using Easy Mix 20kg 55MPa Super Strength Concrete which is a stronger type of concrete, perfect for footings and foundations.
In regards to the sequence, I recommend doing the posts first so that you are not overwhelmed with things to look out for. It's best to do it one step at a time rather than jamming all the steps in one go which opens you up to more errors while assembling your wall.
I suggest going with the recommendation of leaving a 10mm gap for mortar. My best advice is to do a test fit before you commit to fixing it in place. In this manner you'll have a much better idea of what it will look like.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hi @bodega
Mortar is plenty strong for your wall size when your wall boxed in by timber frame less complications.
But if your up for it no harm in adding steel reo if you want to if you can you should do it see what you think about the diagram below Exposed block work pier.
Brick work can tower stories above the ground and they need high levels of reenforcing including the grooves made into breeze blocks this is how reenfrcing will look as its supposed to be pinned into the concrete footing and the side walls and footings. So If you want to feel free to add 10mm Reo rod horizontaly and or vertically on every layer you can see now how its done. But do try use one piece per horizontal (Maybe 2 over lapping rods for ease to push into side timber posts) and vertical across all bricks for maximum strength as per the diagram Drill into timber posts sides if you wish too for super support. Also notice the steel plate on the top. Some completly box in the bricks in steel we are adding a timber frame instead. 
The above drawing shows reo every 4 bricks you can do any reo combo you like here for your wall horizontal vertical for every brick row and column If you want vertical reo drill cement holes after cement set at brick mortar measurements.
By all means Sand and cement pre mix is great also use to premixed mortar mix.To fit your workspace at need, The 300x 300 footing plenty deep strong for general cement mixes Use any brand of the following guide
Australian Builders 20kg Sand And Cement Mix Bag I/N: 0760612 $10.07
Bastion 20kg Mortar Mix I/N: 0038286 $9.56
No need to try mortar to the posts as concrete wont stick so set your posts precisely as possible to 1200mm apart which includes all joints for bricks. No need to leave gap between post and bricks unless you want to.
Do pre paint timber stump going into ground for added protection against wood rot. Any paint I prefer bitumous paint for a rubber coating. Do you want to have to replae posts after all this?
See attached rough sketch (not to scale) see how the post footings are one and the same as the brick footings the black line is bottom of cement shape.
Take your time in preparing now it will be worth it.
Dig your post holes 600mm .dig the connecting footings 300mm
Put plastic in trench if you wish optional not in post hole.
Build rectangle form work around both posts and 300mm wide lift and position frame and screw it to pre hammered in stakes on outside of frame.
Reminder the formwork top will be your brick laying surface level. Top of your concrete to make filling and smoothing easy.
Add your reo steel too footings and put rocks under it so its in concrete middle.
Calculation
I am assuming a 2.4Metre post x 100 x100mm notice I put the cross bar inside posts that means 1800mm brick gap plus 100mm for top rail that leaves 500mm below ground
Stand your posts in the ground and lift them and put a half brick under them? so they are 1900mm above the formwork top Ie 1800mm for breeze bricks space and 100mm for top bar. so that leaves (2.4m - 1900 = 500mm below ground. )
Prop your posts level.
No relaese agent required timber wont stick to cement.
Pour your quite wet /runny cement. Giggle and prod cement down thesides smooth top.
Sign your cement. Have a sit down you earnt it.
Wait 1 week for cement to cure to good strength to take frame off ,else the sides might be damaged.
Ok You can pour posts first if you wish just leave the adjoining cement egdes rough and un smoothed to allow the footing cement pour to key into,
Well footings laid well done .
I would only lay 2 brick rows high per session to allow mortar to harden before going up higher you need experiance to lay a whole wall in one effort. at least let 2hours pass for first rows to set harder as if low rows move it might be a restart on first two layers,
Keep bricks saturated wet with hose before laying.
Well Did this cover most stuff whew
All Good @bodega
Enjoy the process and take your time setting up your footings and posts no rush in that step double check your plan and measurements. make sure you lift post to correct hieght do all this. saterday Pour the next day or same day as so your hard work setting up dosnt move on you lol
Next then do the mix and pour the next day so your not rushed as your footing prepared and ready simple fill the footing up to the form work level and do a final straightness check and measurement check as it harder to alter later.
This level of Prep and thinking will put you in an advanved DIY catagory.
Big Tip With your post 1200mm spacing also make your top timber capping and install it on the posts tempary while your preparing footing. Like goal posts. Can I suggest you cut a scrap timber or (fence pailing) to 1200 and use it between the posts as a spacer that way you will have precise paraellel brick gap and it is so much easier proping up two joined timbers than two separate posts. Plus they will be easier to hold square.
I use fence cheap 1800mm pailings to prop hold posts square on all 4 sides easy to screw 30mm temp screw into post to lock pailings under so they dont slip/move.
Step back from the supported posts and eye ball for square and straight. Also use the tape measure or string to measure from corner to corner on the post for square.
Stage two your ready for prep on your brick work. Break the job down into managable steps.
Love to see your progess photos, and do make mistakes as they are the best teacher of all fixing them.
Hi @Jewelleryrescue, just a quick one.
Posts are in and ready to be cemented. Great idea joining posts with some scrap wood as well.
You mentioned in last post, and in drawing (circled with red):
"Notice I put the cross bar inside posts".
Question - does the cross bar need to be inside the posts or can it sit on top of the posts to encapsulate the bricks?
I'd prefer to have cross bar on top of the posts instead of inside as it adds just a bit more height. However, if this effects stability I'm happy to pass.
Thanks again, talk soon.
Hi @bodega
Let me tag @Jewelleryrescue to make them aware of your question. I believe you can have it on top outside of the hole. Once the concrete cures it will get taken off, plus having it on top gives you more room to pour the concrete.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hi @bodega
You can absolutly put it on top if you want too there is no problem there at all. You can put in 150 mm coach bolts going down into the posts and the heads will be hidden on the top, Just remember to a just your post heights down or trim them off later. Double check your wall will fit inside the dimentions you are creating.
Sorry for delay
Great work on your progress,
Hi @bodega,
Typically, the mesh is placed midway in the footing. If you can do that with rocks, that's fine; alternatively, we have bar chairs.
Mitchell
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