How to make tabletop with strips from different timber species?

[alfredx]

Hi Community,

I am thinking to make a tabletop for a side table of rough size 36cmX45cm, with timber strips of 40mmX40mm from Tas Oak and Spotted Gum, (or Blackbutt), so that it looks better with contrasting colours. I have heard people saying it is bad idea to glue different timbers together which will later cause problems when timber expands and contracts while different timber have different rates in these movements. I have also heard that using special glue like Polyurethane wood glue or Gorila wood glue can reduce the impact of different rates of contraction. So I wanted to seek advice from community to see how similar situations are really going in real life experience, is my idea a dumb idea, or worth giving it a try?

Thanks,

Alfred

[alfredx]

Hi @Dave-1 , yes, good point in lateral movement. My plan is a upside down U where tablesides are on two sides, to tackle lateral movement, my thought now is:

1. Dowel join the table top with table side in areas like the top of the long table leg, the top of blocks (spotted gum of size about 4cmX8cm) that is at the top layer table side, maybe drill three holes onto each of the the 40x40mm areas;

2. If lateral movement still exists, attach triangle of timber (three angles of 90/45/45 degrees) to join the tabletop and tableside at corners, with dowels to join the triangle with tabletop and tableside.

Wonder if these solve the problem?

Thanks/Alfred

[EricL]

Hello @alfredx 

After seeing your plans I'm a little bit worried about those gaps in the table. If you are only using 12mm strips to hold the timber pieces in place, it might be necessary to pin or anchor them somehow. I was under the impression that it would be solid pieces of strips joined together. If you have access to a brad nailer, it would be enough to hold the timber pieces in place along with the use of timber adhesive.

Between your two ideas, I vote using dowels as this will give you the support you need and still be hidden from view, unlike the triangular support piece which will be seen. 

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[alfredx]

@EricL , the tabletop is solid pieces of strips joined together. The gaps is in the tableside only. My thinking is only the four legs (which are part of the two tablesides) are supporting the table. I can dowel join the decorative checker blocks with the 12mm strips, just I think the gaps and checkers are more of a decorative use, which don't require to be strongly joined together?

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @alfredx 

With the upside down U I would be thinking of the dowel as well. Or you could make a thin L shapped bracket to sandwich between the outer layer of the sides to give it strength. Imagine 4 of these shapes (or two big U's) cut out so they sandwidch between the last lengths of timber. They will only be a mm thick but will add a huge amount of stength.

Empire 600mm x 400mm Steel Framing Square - Metric/ Imperial is the example shape I am describing.

Dave

[EricL]

Hi @alfredx 

As long as you are confident that it can support the weight of the table and its not subject to a great deal of stress then it should be ok.

Eric

[alfredx]

Yay @Dave-1 , believe the L shaped bracket you thinking is not metal but timber. I feel like it can be hard to put it in (sandwich the corner bit of outer layer of the tableside and tabletop, if I understand correctly) while not impacting aesthetic aspects of the table.

[alfredx]

yea, @EricL , it is a sidetable more for living room decoration and aesthetic improvement, I'd not plan to have the table capable of supporting lots of weight or stress. Hopefully applying dowel joints is enough for this situation, I'll post some updates here once I am at the stages of joining the tabletop and tablesides.

Thanks/Alfred

[Dave-1]

EVening @alfredx 

I was actually meaning a metal piece to give that strength whilist minimally changing the overall look of your side table Even a local welder/boilermaker place in a light industry area near you could cut a few out I am sure if you dont have the skillset (My metal cuts always go straight then angle down and away lol )

Dave

[alfredx]

@Dave-1 my bad misunderstood. I probably do the dowels and see how it feels first. The L shaped metal bracket though, is it sit at the outer layer of corner edge between tabletop and tableside, and requires screws? if so, it is then easily visible when we look at the table?

[Dave-1]

Morning @alfredx 

I was actually thinking of sandwiching it between the outermost layer and the second, with small countersunk screws (and countersunk metal holes) facing inwards to the next piece of timber. so the only thing seen would be a thin silver strip.

The larger holes on the thin piece is the coutersinking, you will screw through into the first section of the timber. The countersunk holes will be deep enough that the screw head nestles in nicely so you have a smooth surface to glue the next batch of timber on.

Dave