How to build a timber-look desk?

[SarahK1996]

  

Hey brains trust!

Would love your thoughts/advice/recommendations on the best way to build this desk!

So I bought a Specrite timber acacia panel, cut with my jigsaw to make the shape I wanted, sanded it back and then I used Feast & Watson liming white stain on top. 

A few things:

1. For the legs, I’m going to use these four round side tables from Kmart, however I’m just wondering what you think the best way to attach them would be so that I can detach them for moving purposes. I was originally going to use liquid nails but wanting a better solution so that I can detach them. Also, do you think it would look more streamline if I detached the two bottom tops off the side tables? Will take rubber stoppers off too.

2. I think I’m liking the colour of the legs more than the tabletop that I’ve stained in the liming white now. Any suggestions on stains that I could restain the tabletop in to match the legs colour? And if so, do I need to sand the tabletop back and restain in new colour? Or, do you think I should leave as is as it’s not much of a difference?

Looking forward to your thoughts!

[MitchellMc]

Hi @SarahK1996,

Angle brackets would provide a sturdy yet removable connection, making it easier to disassemble the desk when needed. They would be screwed into the side of the top set of the legs and then into the underside of the table top. Provided you used small brackets, you likely wouldn't be able to see them unless you were across the other side of the room and down low.

I agree that removing the rubber feet and securing the table sections together would give a more streamlined appearance. I'd suggest gluing the two sections of legs together with Liquid Nails.

Regarding the stain, matching the tabletop exactly to the legs would be tricky, especially since the colours are so similar. If you want uniformity, you would need to stain both the top and the legs with the same colouring.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[SarahK1996]

Hi Mitch!

Thanks so much for your help! Angle brackets worked a treat and then when I removed the rubber feet and glued the legs together, it looks so much better!

The only thing is that because the desk is so high (I like it this way though) I am just going to change the type of legs on my chair to taller ones from Bunnings and then it will work out perfect! I was going to try and cut down the legs but I think it will cause me more issues than anything, so new chair legs it is!

Will let you know how it goes - also decided to keep the colour as is!

[MitchellMc]

Can't wait to see the finished product @SarahK1996!

Mitchell

[SarahK1996]

Hey Mitch,

Just wondering I guess if I were to make the side tables shorter to make the table shorter, what would be the best way to do this to ensure an even and level cut especially considering they are cylinders? I have a jigsaw, hand saw and circular saw at home which I have used all of before for little projects! (Not a pro obviously though).

Thanks so much!

[JacobZ]

Hi @SarahK1996,

You'd want to be confident that making a cut like that wouldn't affect the structural integrity of the tables before going ahead.

I assume that beneath the vertical beading that makes up the face of the table, there is a frame that the beading is attached to. If you were to cut the tables, let's say 300mm up from the bottom, then I doubt the beads would be attached to anything at the bottom that would keep the shape of the table. If there is a circular framing piece at the bottom of the table, you might need to detach the bottom 300mm of beading from it, move it up and then attach each individual piece of timber beading to that framing piece.

This is just a hypothetical, as I don't know how your tables were made, but knowing generally how furniture is made, there's a good chance it wouldn't be as simple as just cutting the table.

If you were happy to give it a try, I would measure up from the base and make 5-6 marks at the height you'd like to remove. You could then use something flexible like a piece of string or a Tie Down Strap to connect these marks, then trace along it to mark the height of the cut.

Once marked, you'll want to secure the table in place so that it doesn't move while cutting. This could be a bit tricky due to the shape, so the best way to do it is likely to just have a helper hold the other end of the table while you cut. Just make sure you trust them and you communicate well. 

You could use either a circular saw or a jigsaw saw, depending on your level of confidence with these tools. A circular saw, when used well, will typically give a straighter cut, but they have a longer base plate than a jigsaw, so it would be a bit less balanced on the rounded surface. Personally, I would use a circular saw, but I have many hours of experience and am very confident in my ability. Whatever you choose to use, please make sure you and anyone helping you wears gloves, hearing protection, eye protection and takes all necessary precautions to prevent injury.

Let me know what you think, and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

[SarahK1996]

Hi Jacob!

Thanks so much for your in depth response.

Looking at the side tables that are my legs, I think I probably will just be opening up a can of worms, so I have decided I think I will leave the table as it is currently, and do what I was thinking of doing initially which was changing the legs on my current chair to be a taller kind!

The other question I had was, if a chairs current legs are angled, they don't necessarily have to be replaced by angled ones do they? They can just be straight up and down? Thanks so much again for all of your help!

[JacobZ]

Hi @SarahK1996,

The angle can help prevent tipping, but if you don't swing on the chair, I can't see it mattering too much.

As long as all the legs hit the ground and they support the weight applied to them, then I can't see their angle being too much of an issue.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[SarahK1996]

Thanks so much superstar!