How to build a kitchen timber shelving unit?

[BoeingFan]

Howdy all,

May I please ask for some guidance to help me build an open backed shelving unit for my kitchen. In short, I have a benchtop oven, microwave, toaster and kettle which need a home in this thing.

Here are the dimensions at minimum:

55cm wide clear space at the front i.e. not encroached upon by legs or supports.

50cm deep shelves

40cm or more separation between shelves

The maximum height is ideally between 180-200cm. I'd love this to be strong and sturdy, so hardwood or thick pine is good. In my minds eye I'm visualising 4 tall legs with shelves in between, but don't know how to go about it. The shelf supports need to be strong which means bigger screws and brackets, but bigger screws mean longer ones which means they stick out the top of the shelf, and this is where my head explodes hahaha.

Thanks in advance.

[MitchellMc]

Hi @BoeingFan,

What are your thoughts on a rustic/industrial style shelving unit using Brasshards 20 x 400mm Galvanised Pipe and Brasshards Galvanised Round Flange With 20mm Drill Malls as the supports between each shelf?

For constructing a timber unit, I'd be inclined to screw through your uprights and into the thickness of the shelf with long screws. I'd then add angle brackets under the shelves using smaller screws; that way they don't penetrate the face of the shelf. I've constructed a rendering for you below.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[BoeingFan]

Hi @MitchellMc ,

Thank you so much for the rendering, that timber unit is just what I had pictured. The screws going into the side is a great idea. May I ask if you could please tell me the materials to buy at Bunnings to make this?

The metal one has me intrigued, though it's not something I'm familiar with; I assume the 40cm gal pipe is screwed together to form the tall uprights, and those round mall things are what they screw into? Are the malls horizontal or vertical? What shelf would you suggest? The good thing about the metal unit is that I don't have to saw anything I guess.

[MitchellMc]

Hi @BoeingFan,

Ideally, it would be best to use 90 x 35mm Framing MGP10 Untreated Pine 2.7m, or alternatively, you could use 90 x 35mm Framing MGP10 H2 Blue Pine 2.4m and paint it. For the shelves, these Specrite 1200 x 600 x 18mm Timber Multi Use Pine Panels could be cut up into your required sizes. You'll need angle brackets and small screws. Longer screws to screw through the uprights into the shelves. It would be a good idea to glue the shelf joints to the uprights.

For the pipe version, you'd screw a mall onto both ends of each short segment of pipe. You'd then screw the mall to the shelf above and below. So, essentially, you'll have a section of pipe in between each shelf.

Mitchell

[BoeingFan]

G'day @MitchellMc,

There seems to be a lack of the framing pine at my local store, which is ok, because you've got me intrigued by the pipe version now.

If I was to go ahead with the pipe version, may I ask, what screws or bolts would you recommend to attach the malls to the shelves? Also, am I able to paint the pipes and malls?

I've been looking at images since you raised this option, and thinking of how I could apply what I need to this. Here's a question for you; if I was to drill a 20mm hole in each corner of a shelf, could I slide a pip through each hole, and have the mall underneath it, flange up, on the end of the pipe, supporting the shelf? Though I'm unsure that would leave any thread left to add the next section onto?

This is starting to become my preferred option!

Thanks,

Jason

[EricL]

Hello @BoeingFan (Jason)

It all depends on how thick a timber shelving you'll be using. For example, if you chose to use the Specrite 2200 x 600 x 26mm Timber Multi Use Pine Panel. You would be able to get at least 4 shelves out of the entire length. Since it is 26mm thick and the galvanized flange is at least 2 mm thick, it would be safe to use a 20mm screw.

However, I suggest bringing the Brasshards Galvanised Round Flange With 20mm Drill Mall to where the screws are so that you can test them and make sure that the screws will not fall through the mounting holes of the flange.

In regards to drilling into the shelf and dropping it into the pipes themselves, the hole would have to be very precise as you'll need to use a Brasshards 20mm Galvanised Socket to act as a shelf holder. I don't recommend doing it this way as the shelf frame would not be very strong.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[arfabuck]

I do not know if something rustic would fit into your kitchen decor, but I found building shelving units utilising natural timber to be so easy to construct.  40 mm pieces can handle any weight of kitchen machinery.  The only problem being able to source that ideal timber.
The pic is of a walnut branch that broke off the trunk during a storm and was too good to be cut into firewood.

[EricL]

Hello @arfabuck 

That is an amazing shelf! Let me tag @BoeingFan to make them aware of your suggestions.

Eric