How to build a Kaboodle cabinet around a hot water tank?

[LeopoldProjects]

Hello,

I am building a kaboodle kitchenette. 

The corner cabinet is to have a hot water tank inside it. 

The drip pan/tray is the same depth as the cabinet. Meaning I can't install a kickboard. 

What are my options here?

I didn't even think of this been an issue. 

I really would like to have the same kickboard look across the whole kitchenette. 

Someone said I could pack out the back of the kitchenette to bring the cabinet forward. 

 

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @LeopoldProjects 

You could still do the cuts tho beware of sparks and then the folds (may be harder to do)

Or depending on the quality of what you want. Cut the 50mm off with a grinder (may be hard sitting on the floor) and install a new piece if aluminuim across the fron and silastic it both sides to make waterproof. (I wouldnt go to small as its meant to catch drips)

Dave

[Nailbag]

Hi @LeopoldProjects 

The tray will be a generic size suitable for various diameter tanks. If you were to remove it and had it refolded in the font to be an almost snug fit will that give you the depth for your kick-panel? If so, thats the route I would take as @Dave-1 also suggested.

And unless I am misunderstanding your alternative idea, I wouldn't consider packing the carcass with a triple up of the rear panel as this will affect standard bench depth by around 40mm..

Nailbag

[TedBear]

Hi @LeopoldProjects , there is no need to fit whole panels behind the cabinets. Ours just have strips of vertical timber in a few places to keep them sitting at the right distance out from the wall. This has made it easier to run a gas pipe (in our case) and a power point for the electric oven (that cabinet space has no back at all). The cabinets don't have any forward/backward stresses and the top, being attached to a strip along the wall as well as the cabinet tops, keep the cabinets in place very well. You won't then have to make a deep hole to get to the power point on the wall... Just a hole through the one layer that is the cabinet back.

[MitchellMc]

Hi @LeopoldProjects,

My vote would be as @Dave-1 mentioned, to place some incisions in the corners, fold the front in and then pop-rivet the corners back together and apply sealant. If you're not confident in doing so, I recommend enlisting the services of a handy person.

Mitchell

[LeopoldProjects]

Thanks for the advice. 

I guess that's were I encounter another issue. 

If I shorten the tray I will then need to add or replace the flooring to cover the concrete. 

These panels are the first laid laminate flooring.  Do you know if it's possible to remove and change these panels?  

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @LeopoldProjects 

Yeah I thought that could be an issue. Was hoping not 😕

If you can lay your hands on the same type of floating floorboards then it is doable. Depends on how they have been installed (glued down or just clipped in)

Or you could go down the route of attaching this Metal Mate 40 x 12 x 1.6mm 1m Silver Aluminium Unequal Angle - 1m to the kickboard, I would file the corner and square edge to take the sharpness away tho. Short side on the kickboard, longside to cover the gap.

Dave

[LeopoldProjects]

Thanks for the reply.

Yes I have some spare panels left over. They are clipped in. 

[Dave-1]

@LeopoldProjects 

Then you should be able to replace the short ones Cheering, more work but achievable if you gothe route of reducing the tray.

Dave

[TedBear]

Hi @LeopoldProjects , as I understood the situation, the reason for folding back the tray edge is to allow the kickboard to extend over into that area. Wouldn't the gap in the flooring therefore be covered by the kickboard?