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Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @karinas. It's fantastic to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about installing cabinetry.
To accurately determine the location of the timber studs behind your gyprock, I recommend cutting small inspection holes in the plasterboard. This way, you can confirm the stud placement and ensure that your screws penetrate securely into them. The holes will be covered by the cabinetry later, so you won’t need to worry about the aesthetics. Make sure to use screws long enough to pass through the gyprock, the metal frame, and into the timber studs for a strong hold.
If there are existing anchor points from the previous cabinets that align with the studs, it’s generally okay to reuse them as long as they are in good condition. However, if the previous anchors show signs of wear or if the screws don't align well, it's wise to reposition slightly above or below to ensure a secure fit and avoid potential failure within the gyprock.
For spots that don’t line up with the studs, cleats are a better option than Wallmates, as Wallmates do not have a suitable weight rating for cabinetry. Cleats will provide a sturdy backing for your cabinets and help distribute the weight evenly, minimising the risk of damage or instability.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Hello @karinas
I propose using 42 x 19mm 1.8m DAR Pine Premium - 1.8m in combination with Ramset Super Wallmate Toggle Anchor. The toggle anchor has a screw activated toggle that lowers the toggle bar at the back to secure it to the plasterboard. The timber panel which we'll call the cleat must be anchored properly to as many steel studs as possible. Those areas that don't have any suds at the back must at least have a minimum of three toggle anchors every 250mm.
In order to prevent your cabinet from tilting a second timber piece must be installed close to the bottom of the cabinet to serve as a filler. Therefore, when you hang the cabinet, it will be flat to the wall. Now I understand that there will be a gap at the back, in order to cover this, I suggest cutting a small strip of timber from the filler panel about 30mm wide. Preferably the side that has a finish on it. I then suggest linking the cut piece to the back of the wall panel and then you can slide that wall end panel in place.
Please give me some time to draw a quick render. As soon as I finish, I'll post the finished drawing here.
Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hi @karinas
The information that both @EricL and @MitchellMc remains the same even though you have metal studs not timber ones. It's just that you will use suitably sized/length metal screws instead of timber ones. Non-stud fixing will also be the same advice they have provided.
As you have already noted there are electrical cables running through some areas. This just means the fixing screws will need to go above or below in those spots as you want to fix to as many of the studs as possible. The cabinets will also be fixed to each other through their side walls as each cabinet is added. This will also share load and add additional support for all the cabinets, especially those with fewer studs and more wall anchors.
The photo below is an example of this. Each cabinet is fixed to the next with 4 countersunk screws after each one is fixed to the wall. I use Ramset multipurpose anchors for non-stud fixing in to the plasterboard. I like them because I can use them in both plasterboard and masonry with plenty of load capacity.
Mark the rear of each cabinet the location of the stud and pre-drill the holes through the back. Then drill the pilot holes for the fastener fixings. Position and fix the cabinet in place. mark the fixings position with a long tip marker. Then remove the cabinet and install the fastener and rehang the cabinet to all fixing points. Then continue along.
Nailbag
Good Morning @karinas
Ive only attached kitchen cupboards to the timber studs of wall before and was lucky or unlucky enough that the plaster had to be replaced where there were tiles. Id marked the studs top and bottom 
I like @Nailbag's and @EricL 's example of how to with the install with a cleat. It does make sense.
Im not keen on using anything to secure to just the plaster, I just dont trust it long term (tho the specs say so and so)
Was trying to figure a way around the issue so you could find the metal studs and kept coming up against cutting a section out to actually confirm it was there. (lots of work but was heading that way)
Then I thought why not just draw a straight line in pencil horizontal against the middle of where the cabinets will be. Then using a stanley knife cut the straight line where you think a stud will be. Extend the cut until you feel the stud with the blade of the stanely knife. The blade is only 15mm-20mm deep so you should be able to hit the stud. Once you have found the first one, 300mm, 450mm, or 600mm for the next one. once you have three you hopefully will have the lot. The single line cut you can repair or as someone said it will be hidden behind the cabinets anyway.
The spots that were previously used I would go as you suggested and screw higher or lower biut not the same hole. (If you have a few you may be able to figure the distance between the studs. Just divide the distance between two of the old fixing points by the 300mm or 450mm or 600mm. The 300 and 600mm would throw me out as Id go to put a screw in thinking it was 300mm spacing when it is 600. Thats why Once you have found one with the cut and see method you will know for sure.
Dave
Hello @karinas
Thank you for your patience. I've placed some images below to give you an idea of how you can place the French cleats on the wall and how you can cover the sides and gap at the back. Your goal is to anchor the cleats as securely as possible so that it will be able to support the cabinet and the items that will be put in them.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
