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Naturally an anvil needs to sit on a sturdy base and I didn't just want to settle for the old tree stump solution. I wanted something epic, preferably medieval looking with a mix of charred wood and bare steel.
So I started off with a 100x100x2400 timber post that I cut in 4 and glued together to create the 200x200x600 blank to work from. I used a power planer to get the sides relatively flush without completely ruining it's rugged looks, and also threw a bevel on the edges while I was at it. I traced the anvil's footprint and used my router to drop it by about 10mm so that the anvil sat nice and snug and couldn't slide around. I also used the router to create 2x 25x3mm channels around the base, 150mm from the top and bottom ends.
Once I was happy with the shape and size, I used a blowtorch to char the exterior and really bring out the wood grain, followed by a quick Scotchbrite scuffing to blend it nicely. I sealed the charred base with two layers of boiled Linseed oil.
Finally, I created the 2x metal straps that fit snugly in the channels I had milled, welded the ends and drove 16x 45mm coach screws through it to bring it all together. Overall, I'm super happy with the outcome. The last step will be to add the tool holder to the top and secure the anvil with some brackets that I'm yet to make
PS: Below you will see the welds I did where the ends of the flatbar met. I welded this in place because the strap sits in a channel and could not be fitted over otherwise. I did these with a little Ozito gasless MIG I bought last week: The new one, where the feed and voltage are both adjustable rather than just the feed rate. It works like a charm 
Happy building!
Hi @Noyade
I suspect that heat might need to be applied in order to keep the steel in place. Let me tag @MartiPedia to make sure they see your question.
Eric
Hi @EricL
I gave up trying heat. In the end I just cut the two sides, folded them down and welded 'shark fins' into the gaps.
PS: Since I last posted, I've acquired some proper fire bricks to get the forge temps up, made a bearded viking axe and started making a knife which for me had only existed virtually until now: The ACB-90 from Battlefield 4 😬 I've acquired a handful of farrier rasps which are just great for knife steel. I'll also produce a short skinning knife and a viking seax from the stock I have in the coming month or so, time permitting 😅
Love the axe @MartiPedia! I've been working on a tomahawk for a close friend for a while now.
Really cool to see you bring a virtual knife to life. For that same friend, I bought a replica of his favourite knife from CSGO. Bit of a tangent, but I noticed that a virtual knife I'd purchased eight years ago for a silly amount of money ($180) is now worth close to a thousand. It can't be sold for real-world money, but Steam money is good enough for me as I can buy more games.
Thanks for sharing.
Mitchell
Thanks @MitchellMc, totally agree. There are more tradable commodities out there outside of money😬
I was looking at the offcut from that first farrier rasp last night and decided to quickly do the skinning blade first, as it was small and not very complex. It's ready for hardening and tempering now.
"I like the shark fins though! Did you use a plasma cutter for those?"
No, I don't own one. Do you? Is that how you cut your blade shapes?
I tried with my newish oxygen/propane cutting torch - but I keep losing track of my outline. I'm an amateur. In the end I broke all the angle grinder/cutter laws and used a very thin abrasive disc to cut the curves. The inferior torch cut is indicated...
Hi again @MartiPedia
A while back I saw this fencing bar at bunnings and thought I could replicate it for a cheaper price. But in the end I over-engineered and it became very heavy, plus I think the welding makes the steel softer? It bent it on the first use when I pryed it back in tough dirt. If I had your forge could I have toughened it - even the welds?
In the end - I bought the Bunnings bar.
I have a metallurgist brother in Perth - but we don't talk much.
The top - is my replica with the additional side plates welded on to prevent the blade bending.
The rod is also too large - 27 mm diameter...
I made the end bigger - at least it's a good dirt compacter...😁
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