How to make a saw-table?

[VulcanJohn]

Hi everyone, when I need to cut long pieces of wood or boards, I find my circular saw awkward to keep straight, especially when I have to start leaning across the workpiece to get to the far side. I don't have a proper workbench, just an old Black & Decker workmate stand that I can clamp the pieces to. Now, If I could find  way to mount my circular saw under the workbench, so I could feed the work through it, I think that might be a solution. Yes, I could go and buy a table saw, but storage space is at a premium and I'm not sure I would use it enough to justify the cost. Any thoughts would be welcome.

[CSParnell]

Has anyone mentioned a circ saw guide as alternate? Sorry if you have?

These have a foam back to grip to the timber and you can also add some quick grips if you like.

Let's you stand on the front side of the timber and rip it.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/bosch-blue-2100mm-guide-rail-for-plunge-circular-saw_p0236823

[EricL]

Hi @CSParnell

There was mention of a similar product in the discussion. I've used a Makita plunge track saw before and they are wonderful to operate. It cuts perfect lines all the time and you never have to worry about drifting even if you stop in the middle of the cut.  

Eric

[CSParnell]

I've seen shop fitters back in the day on-site use the festool ones and they were like magic, this is going back 15 years or so.

[Noyade]

I'm a poor man.

Still using an aluminium straightedge and clamps.

Today was a 2.4 metre cut. At that length - the straightedge does flex in the middle - maybe 1or 2 mm.

What do you guys do for cuts like this?

My back is no good - I can't do this sort of thing on the ground.

[MikeTNZ]

Hi @Noyade,

While I do have the clamp-on straight-edge device, I do use a length of 25 x 65 mm RHS aluminium section.

I have never had this distort (bend) once while making a long cut through a full sheet of 18mm plywood.

Obviously the wider part of it is clamped to your timber/board, it is the width that makes it hard for it to delineate during the cut.

Cheers,

Mike T.

[MikeTNZ]

Hi @Brad,

Thanks mate, that's exactly what I was after, let's see if I can get that in New Zealand.

Cheers,

Mike T.

[MikeTNZ]

Nah,

That's all good @MitchellMc.

While I don't personally like linking to YouTube videos, this one is really helpful if you aren't that experienced with a circular saw, especially on long cuts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILVCdEOhYBc 

This guy was a god-send when I first learned to use a router ( the wood cutting type).

Cheers,

Mike T.

[CSParnell]

Check out the old GMC circ saw a range that Bunnings used to carry, I have one inherited from my dad and it's still going strong. Scary as he'll but it's a beast. 

I actually still have a GMC tool bag too. 

[EricL]

Hi @Noyade

I have the same exact guide at home, I usually put a piece of timber in the middle of the guide and clamp it to the board to prevent the aluminium from bowing in the centre. Not the best solution, but it's what's working so far. 

Eric

[Noyade]

Hi @EricL 

Clever idea above. I was even thinking of a small screw midway.

Hi @MikeTNZ 

"25 x 65 mm RHS aluminium section."

Yes, a better section than mine - which is only 25 X 40mm. I will look into that.

These sorta very long cuts are very rare for me though.

Hi @CSParnell 

Good eye there. A big ole 230mm/2,300 watt GMC saw. I bought this from a pawn broker for $20 a few years ago - unused and still in it's original box. Very heavy.