How do you dynabolt a metal frame to a concrete slab?

[Martinb]

I am by myself and for stability I have erected the frame by temporarily slotting the sleeves into each other and it is stable on a level slab, but now I have to dynabolt the frame to the slab. Maybe I have gone about this backwards could you please advise me on further directions.

 

[Martinb]

Hi MitchellMc,

I have screwed all the 10mm anka screws down into the 10mm holes but two are a bit loose and I have no idea why. The other 6 are screwed down tight is there any type of glue or fast drying liquid cement I can put in the hole then screw them in? I was thinking of  putting the roof frame up while there is still some tolerance and then put some tek screws in or should I wait put the tek screws in for rigidity then the roof frame?

Ok I wrote the above post about 2 hours ago and have found out when checking the levels pout that on corner is 70mm out and other is 60mm out, all others are ok. I got a professional?? to do the slab and it appears to be not level

[MitchellMc]

It's great to hear you are making progress @Martinb.

Remove the loose Ankascrews, squirt a small amount of Ramset 300ml Chemset UltraFix Plus in the hole, apply it to the thread of the screw, and re-insert. That will fill up any voids and glue the Ankascrew into position.

Regarding the Tekscrews, do the installation instructions call for them? If not, I'd be hesitant to install them as you might find it difficult to install the roof. Once the walls and roof are on, they should sure up the structure, and if not, you could always install the Tekscrews at the end of the build.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[Martinb]

Hi Mitchell Mc,

Yes the instructions do require you to use the tek screws. Regarding the level I have some extra colourbond sheeting the same colour so that is what I probably will do. However the sides will have a slight slope to them and I am hesitant to use an angle grinder to cut them.

[EricL]

Hi @Martinb 

Thank you very much for the assembly update. I recommend doing a dry fit on one side to make sure that the panels line up so that you won't need to cut so much off. If you are hesitant to use a grinder there is always the option of using tin snips. 

Please make sure to wear gloves and safety goggles when you start drilling and cutting on your steel shed.

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing the walls come up on your shed.

Eric

[Martinb]

Hi MitchellMc

I only have one loose anka screw, so its not worth buying some Chemset, so I was thinking of using some heavy duty liquid nails putting it in the length of the screw then putting some dry concrete powder all over the liquid nails and screwing it in. Would that work, would it fill in the gaps?

Regards

Martin

[MitchellMc]

That would probably work @Martinb. It won't be as strong as the Chemset, but it will stop the screw from being loose.

Mitchell

[Martinb]

MitchellMc,

Other than the Chemset is there anything else that could be used instead of my concoction?

Martin

[MitchellMc]

Not that's recommended by Rasmet @Martinb. You could possibly use some Concremate. Apply it liberally to the thread and a little to the hole's walls, and reinsert your screw. This product expands as it cures, hopefully locking the Ankascrew in place. I would be happier with this solution than the Liquid Nails.

Let me mention @Brad to get his thoughts as he's a big fan of this product. We've both seen some impressive demonstrations done with it.

Mitchell

[Brad]

I would go with Concretemate.

I interesting frame set up, I take it you can choose the location for the door and then cut the frame to fit?

Going to be a challange to get the roof frame fitted.

[Martinb]

Hi Mitchell, Eric & Brad,

Is it critical that everything is 100% level the reason I ask is that the guy who did the slab didn't do it level and one side is about 60mm out with the other side 70mm out. Now the 50mm frame slides into a a 45mm sleeve and can be adjusted up. The 60mm is pretty true but the 70mm is not quite 100% level. I'd say about 90-95%. Does it have to be exact or is there room for movement? I will post some photos tomorrow ok Ok It was a strange question, of course it has to be level, just have to work out a way to do it as both levels are about 35mm above the end of the sleeve. Would you recommend welding some more 50mm onto the existing 50mm?

Martin70 mm out70mm outright is 70 out left is 60 out70mm level60mm levellevel inbetween 70 & 6060 mm out