Recommendations wanted for window putty repair

[Shane]

I have old steel frame windows at the front of my brick house and all of the substance that is I assume supposed to be holding the window glass in and finishing it off cosmetically is all crumbling and needs to be replaced. 

I have no idea what product to use and how to do it. Can anyone please assist? Obviously it will also need a bit of a clean to get rid of mould etc as you can see from the photo below... And yeah, then we need to get onto repainting the windows, too. 

Window and frame with the putty that needs replacing

[Shane]

@mareec 

I'm a bit embarrassed, but this project is still on the to-do list! The internal side looks fine and the glass seems to be still firmly held in place, but we do need to do the external. Maybe share some photos of your windows so the Bunnings guys can see yours and suggest what to use. 

[Shane]

Huzzah! Good progress finally being made. Now just need to wait for the putty to harden and then re-paint the windows. 

Before:

Old crumbling putty removed:

New putty:

[Shane]

How are your windows going @mareec?

There must be lots of interest in this as the post has had thousands of views! Sorry I told so long to get back to you - it certainly hasn't been too difficult with the putty.

[MitchellMc]

It's certainly been a popular topic @Shane, so many thanks for coming back and updating us on your progress.

I must say you've done a wonderful job! I have fairly advanced skills with using fillers and have had tons of practice. I can't say applying linseed-based filler is one of my favourite things to do. It can be incredibly sticky and hard to work with. You've been able to achieve some really impressive results there. To give you an example of how wrong this can go, check out the fine putty work on my glazing. This isn't my work, I'm not that bad.

Any techniques you could share with our members that might assist them with their own window glazing projects? 

I can't wait to see what project you tackle next.

Mitchell

[Shane]

Overdue shot of the finished job after painting. 

[MitchellMc]

Great work @Shane. 

Many thanks for sharing a picture of the finished project. Well done.

Mitchell

[daPletch]

I have used both linseed oil glazing putty and Sika FC extensively.

  Agree that putty technique must be learned, but disagree with your implication that using the Sika is an easier way to a tidy finish. In my experience, it is way too sticky to form neatly with any screeding tool, which only leaves the option of getting a smooth well shaped bead direct from the nozzle.  This may be achievable in small dimension beads as in delicately mullioned colonial windows, but is unlikely given the much larger dimensions of steel angle frames.

  If someone knows how to mechanically form Sika 11 FC  tidily, I'd like to know/ see how it's done!

Ps, something noone has mentioned: the putty used in steel windows was sometimes mixed with asbestos fibre to reinforce against cracking.  Glazing companies will perform expensive testing prior to replacing steel frame windows. Just so you know....

[Jason]

Thank you so much for joining in the discussion and sharing that important safety message @daPletch. I will share it with the Bunnings Workshop team. 

I will also ask the team whether they can share some thoughts about applying Sika FC.

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's great to have you join us. We're looking forward to reading more of your posts soon as it sounds like you have plenty of knowledge and experience to share. Please don't hesitate to post anytime you have something to contribute or need a hand. 

Jason

[JacobZ]

Hi @daPletch,

I'd also like to welcome you to the Bunnings Workshop community and thank you for your comment and sharing that knowledge with us.

I agree that Sika 11 FC is incredibly sticky which can make it difficult to strike off in a smooth aesthetically pleasing way. A trick I've been shown by a glazier that I worked with for some time, is to spray the bead with a mixture of tap water and Morning Fresh before striking off with a silicone scraper of a suitable size. The soap and the water will stop the silicone from sticking to the scraper and spreading out too much onto the surfaces, allowing you to remove excess with ease.

Please keep us updated on any projects or questions that you may have.

Jacob