How to replace floating floor boards?

[Noyade]

I'm too ashamed to explain how the water ingress remained undetected for so long - but you see the damage.

I was thinking of experimental surgery by removing the affected section with a multi-function tool and replacing new boards with glue to the concrete.

If the boards consent - what tool blade?

How to cut an acceptable straight line?

What glue?

Will the unaffected adjacent board flex too much, with the remaining underlay?

Has anyone pioneered this surgery before?

Feasible?

Any thoughts welcome! 👍

I saw this glue recently...

[EricL]

Hi @Noyade 

Are those click on laminate timber panelling? If they are, they should be clipped on to one another and the common way to repair them is to disassemble it. You could theoretically cut them out, but it would take precision cutting to modify a replacement panel as the clipping sides will have to be removed. 

It would not be necessary to glue the panel to the floor, but you will need to glue it to the flooring panels beside it so that it moves with the rest of the flooring, and it won't get left behind.

If you are still keen to cut it, I propose using a timber guide to prevent the multi tool blade from wavering too much. Unfortunately, some movement will occur as it is a free-floating tool. My best suggestion is to practice a few cuts on some offcut panels so that you can have a feel of how the blade will travel.

The wood and metal blade you have in your photo should work adequately.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Noyade]

G'day @EricL 

Yes the 'click' in style that requires the four sides locked in.

They were a Bunnings product which were exceptionally better than others we laid earlier in the house, but I have only a handful left. They are a long board 2 metres in length.

I'm thinking of incising the middle and the ends, then prying the two sides out. I see two possible outcomes....

• It will look 'reasonable.'
• It will be a total disaster.

I'll keep you posted with photos.

Cheers.

[MitchellMc]

Hi @Noyade,

I can definitely confirm for you that it will indeed be one of those two outcomes. But, I have all the faith in the world of your D.I.Y. prowess, and my expectations of your results are slightly higher than 'reasonable'.

Would I be right in thinking that you could just cut a large X from corner to corner of the floating floor piece and lever the pieces out from the connected sides? I don't think you'd need to trim right along its edge and risk cutting into the next board. Then to allow the new board to drop in, you'd likely only need to do a shallow cut and trim the lower engaging lip off the board. That way, it should just drop into place instead of having to clip in.

Mitchell

[Noyade]

Afternoon Mitchell @MitchellMc 

"But, I have all the faith in the world of your D.I.Y. prowess"

I don't.

The problem is I have very few unused boards left - I have to cut the ends, as I see it.

Penciled ends.

[Noyade]

Cutting went well with a thick aluminium straight edge.

[Noyade]

But the problem now is burning out the blade. At first I thought I was pushing too hard - but possibly the top laminate layer is brutal on the teeth?

Time for lunch.  

Teeth worn away.

[Noyade]

There are no issues in lifting the boards - with a hammer and chisel. You can now see the 'water' damage.

The board to the right of the chisel will also be removed - hence the chisel damage doesn't matter.

[Noyade]

Proud of his portrait - but not very brave in thunderstorms.

We found his hiding place - and the 'water' damage recently.

[EricL]

Hi @Noyade 

I'm glad to see that you've managed to lift the damaged panels out. My only added suggestion to your repair work is to use Selleys 500mL Aquadhere PVA Wood Glue Exterior Adhesive. It should provide adequate protection as it is rated "weather resistant". 

Eric