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I am attempting to build a custom office/office desk from the 32mm thick custom Bunnings kitchen benchtop range. I'm going to ask to get the Bunnings team to cut the benchtops into what ever size/shapes required to ease fitment and joinery.
The desk will be supported by multiple overrated 90-degree brackets screwed to wall studs and installed with a laser level.
I want to install acoustic panelling on the walls similar to (Prempanel 2700 x 600 x 21mm Black Oak Timber Acoustic Panel)
I want to ideally use the gaps between slats to run cables to keep it cable managed and avoid drilling port holes for cables., but this presents a problem, or at least a choice. I either cut the acoustic panels into two pieces and install to the wall leaving a 32mm gap for the desk meaning the desk will be flush with the wall and will look counter-sunk into the acoustic panels (good) but leaving no room for cables to go down the back.
or,
I have the desk made to the dimensions of the wall 'with' the panels already installed, meaning the desk will be flush to the panels, but the desk will then be 21mm away from the wall, all be it still supported by the brackets. While it means I could run cables anywhere, Ibut 'm not 100% sold on how it may look, I'm also concerned about weight distribution on the brackets. Is this a terrible idea or present a structural support issue because the edge of the desk/contact point is not flush with the wall putting a levering force on the bracket?
I've calculated the weight of the desk and calculated what my walls can support and I'm well within limits.
Or maybe i simply ask the team to notch some channels?
I hope this makes sense, how would everyone else go about this problem?"
Yes I was thinking the math was just gonna be something like 10 kg per metre.
Just to confirm what I think Dave asked earlier @daley85 - you want no legs with this desktop?
From Page 2 @daley85
"I can only assume with my restrictions it has to be 45 degree corner joined."
I'm thinking this would need perfectly square corners in your room - and perfectly cut 45 degree mitres. And the longer the mitre, the more chance of an expanding gap. Then again I only have one kitchen top assembly as experience - but the kitchen bench-top supplier refused a mitre for the one and only kitchen corner.
🤔
by reducing the long side depth from 700 to 600, this will make perfect 45-degree mitres.
The wall-facing corners can be radiased if needed. or sanded. they will be hidden by 27mm of wall panel slat as far as I'm aware
But yes sorry. i ideally want no legs. although I think I may have to compromise
Updated drawing
600 & 700 deep version (saving for my reference)
Afternoon @daley85
Have you checked that your corners are true 90deg? (and also accurate across both outside walls) I am yet to find one in any of the houses I have been in and sad to say even I messed up my own corners when I was lining the garage walls lol seriously I was shocked at my "fail" level.
Dave
Oddley enough i did check this, and its within a few mm, I could always reduce by 5mm ish on wall contact sides as the wooden slats are quite deep and will hide the edge/contact, the squareness is astonishing because the rest of the house including some things that should be 'quality' are not.. and the more I look the more upsetting it is.
To all,
it looks like the bunnings team cant do it.
"
This benchtop is not possible due to the exposed angle on the left hand end.
The colour the customer has chosen is a Think benchtop with is now DIY only, which to my knowledge is basic panels cut to length and depth, with no angles."
Afternoon @daley85
Is that what the special orders desk said?
Things are always doable but considerations of things that can go wrong can be an issue.
It being a timber benchtop it should have no issues being exposed unless they are thinking its laminate? But then Ive seen kitchen benches at angles?
Something sounds liek its gone South. Im sure one of teh Bunnings crew will be able to sort the issue into something more understandable.
Dave
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