How to install Hardie Axon cladding using cavity battens?

[Trobo]

Hi,

Im looking to using hardie board axon cladding and just looking for confirmation on using timber battens for it. The information I’ve found is battens need to be 35x70mm and up to 1200mm centres so I wouldn’t need to batten every stud which will be 450mm centres.

Is this correct or can the batten sizes be smaller? Also can I join the cladding on joins that don’t land on a batten or do they need to land on a batten to properly secure the cladding?

Thanks

[JacobZ]

Hi @Trobo,

The only source of information that should be followed for James Hardie Axon Cladding is the Axon Cladding Installation Guide. This guide must be followed exactly for any installation to be up to standard and warrantable. I'd suggest reading this guide thoroughly to understand the requirements of your specific method of installation.

There are four distinct methods of installation. These are direct fix to timber frame, direct fix to steel frame and then cavity fix to timber frame and cavity fix to steel frame. 

Can you advise which method you will be following?

In any case, the only advisable batten size is 70x35 which must be nailed to a timber frame using Paslode 65 x 2.87mm Amor Galvanised Dekfast Impluse Nails or screwed to a steel frame using Buildex 14g x 75mm Zinc Alloy Bugle Batten Tek Screws, with a fixing every 200mm along the full height of the batten.

The wind classification where you live will dictate the maximum allowable stud spacing. This can be seen in the table below.

 

My understanding is that battens must be attached to every stud and sheets must be attached to every batten, with the first fixing 50mm in from the top and bottom edge and then at the appropriate spacings for your wind classification.

There is no method of installation where joins can happen without a batten, stud or noggin beneath the join.

To install Axon Cladding in a warrantable fashion, there is quite a lot of complexity, but all the necessary information is in the installation guide. 

If you read and understand your requirements, there is nothing stopping you from doing it yourself, however, it might be worthwhile speaking to someone who specialises in cladding installation for their assistance.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[Trobo]

Hi @JacobZ 

Thanks yeah I've done a bit more reading on this and agree with what youve put there.

I will be going with the timber cavity option to allow for airflow being the cladding and framing wrap. And based on the fact I'll be putting a colorbond roof on so the load is going to be low and I'll be using 90x45mm MGP10 framing I'll just expand my stud spacing to suit the 600mm instead of the 450mm. For some reason when I first considered this cladding I thought it worked with 450mm centres but must have misread the sizing originally.

[JacobZ]

Hi @Trobo,

If it fits within the requirements for your build, that sounds like a good plan to me.

The best advice I can offer is to read the installation guide a few times over and ask any questions you may have, whether it is here, or directly to James Hardie. 

I've found that James Hardie's team are extremely knowledgeable and ready to help with any questions that I've had in the past. 

They can be contacted on 13 11 03 or through their Contact Us page in Australia, or on 0800 808 868 and through their Contact Us page in New Zealand.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Jacob