How to change hardware for top hung windows?

[threemonkeys]

 

I'm looking at changing out the hardware on these old top hung windows.

The fittings on currently have seized up, where they're screwed in they've ripped out and been repaired so the wood beneath them is pretty chewed up. I figured I could repair it cosmetically and reposition with a different type of fitting rather than chiseling out bits of wood and replacing that section. I will be stripping the paint back as far as I can get it prior to repainting.

I also have trouble with the windows staying open and have had them slam cracking one of the panes so I would like something that keeps the window open. What are the pros and cons of the various fixtures? I will be removing the paint with the heat gun, what precautions do I need to take working around the panes?

[JacobZ · Accepted solution]

Hi @threemonkeys,

Thank you for your question about restoring a window with paint and new fixtures.

My suggestion is to replace the existing hardware with a Remsafe White Window Winder Lockable. This will mean you can remove the old whitspurs and combine the utility of them with a product that will also hold the window open. 

If you'd like to replace the hardware you've pictured like-for-like, there are the Whitco Chrome Whitspurs that can be used. You could reposition them away from the chewed-up timber, or simply fill the screw holes with Turbo 175ml Builders Bog Flexipack, allow it to dry and then reattach.

If you were to replace the whitspurs like for like, you would need to use something like the Whitco 300mm Steel Friction Window Stay Set to keep the window open.

Glass has been known to crack based on extreme temperature changes, so I would suggest steering away from using a heat gun when removing paint around the glass, especially where the glass has already cracked.

My suggestion would be to use a paint stripper such as this Tricleanium Paint Stripper alongside a Trojan 6 In1 Multi Paint Scraper to remove the bulk of the paint. Any troublesome bits can be cleaned up with some sandpaper, or simply painted over. This method of paint removal will allow you to be more precise as you'll need to apply much less force to remove the paint.

Please remember to ensure you are cautious around the glass, do not rush, be as precise as possible and wear all relevant personal protective equipment including gloves, eye protection and long work clothing to avoid any potential lacerations and remember to follow all manufacturer's instructions and wear a mask when using paint stripper.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob 

[threemonkeys]

What other options are available? I'd like something with character to suit the old building and the ability to fix the window open, I can't do anything about the hinges.

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @threemonkeys 

Any chance of a pic of the outside of the house or more of the room? Just so we can see what type of character feeling you have. 

Dave

[threemonkeys]

I've decided to go with the 22cm casements stays, they look like the most practical for that window and they're reminiscent of what my grandmother had, she also had these taps and style of sink so in my mind they go together. They might be a little short for the one in the kitchen but it appears only the side mounted one comes in a longer length.

Anything too clean and sleek looking won't look right in this building because it's got the taller ceilings from the 60s era, there isn't a single straight edge either because it's cement walls, some of my neighbours have tried already and I don't like the look of it, I'm also on a "if it ain't broke don't fix it" renovation budget.

 

[MitchellMc]

Casement stays sound like a great solution @threemonkeys.

Although the Delf 280mm Satin Chrome Casement Stay Side Fix states they are side fix and for side hinged windows, I can't see any reason why you couldn't use them on your top hinged windows.

Mitchell

[threemonkeys]

I went with the 22cm one. It probably could have done with a slightly longer one but I don't mind the extra sill space and it's sturdier than I was expecting. The pins were pretty easy to line up following an online tutorial and I've got a good seal with no rattling. 

I ended up using paint stripper on the windows themselves. I used the less toxic version which did the job well enough with two or three coats add some soapy steal wool to clean up, it was also pretty good at getting the paint off that was all over my chrome fixtures and hinges elsewhere.

On the sill and window frames I used the heat gun, I was careful not to Nick the wood but they were in pretty bad shape and didn't come up too well, lots of chunks missing out of them and edges knocked off which I thought would probably be the case. I had hoped if I got it back to wood I would have found the issue is in the paint the layers and layers and layers of paint and not the frames but the damage was right down to the frames. I had a go at filling them with pretty limited success, the damage was fairly extensive. I ended up sanding the sill back with a coarse sandpaper which brought up the grain, I don't think I've ever seen anybody with "shabby chic" window frames before. I kind of like them but I don't know how they're going to be when it comes to cleaning. The grain is probably going to fill in over time when it's had a few more coats on it.

[Dave-1]

Good Evening @threemonkeys 

Sounds like some decent work! My last house had roller coaster timber for the window frames sill It was orgiginal timber tha you could feel the ripples in and had been covered in wood grained contact.... Yeah the book cover stuff! I sanded and sanded and it was "ok" but not smooth by any means but I loved it as it was fair effort in fixing it I like your description for the same reason!

Dave