How to build a bench seat for a dining table?

[J-P]

Hi There -

I am building a bench seat for my dining table and bought these legs - https://www.bunnings.com.au/rapidhome-30-x-45-x-6cm-black-la-paz-steel-tube-bench-seat-furniture-leg...

I need some help on what panel to choose. It would have to sit 3 adults (max case) - So about 250 - 300 Kg. Do i need to consider some sort of reinforcement for the panel. I also will stain it to match my dining table colour. Any suggestions would help.

Thanks

[JacobZ]

Hi @J-P,

Ideally, you would screw down from the top, because you would be able to get far more depth of embedment in the framing than you would in the benchtop. The more of the screws thread in the timber, the more pulling power, and consequently the stronger the connection.

As @Dave-1 has said it is doable, but there'd be a few extra steps.

The simplest way would be to grab a 90mm screw such as these Buildex 90mm Timber Screws and drive them all the way through the pine framing into the benchtop.

If you're set on using the 65mm screws that you have, you could grab a drill bit that is larger than the head of your screw to countersink a hole in the framing that will set a depth in relation to the screw. Something like this Sutton Tools 10mm Viper Jobber Drill Bit should work fine assuming the diameter of the screw head is smaller than 10mm, which I'm fairly confident it should be. It's definitely worth double-checking though, which can be done by placing the tip of the drill bit against the head of the screw. If the drill bit is wider than the screw head, you are good to go.

Now with your 10mm drill bit, measure 25mm from the tip and put some masking tape around the drill bit. This will act as a depth gauge for your countersink. Drill into the framing timber until the tape touches the surface. You will now have a 25mm countersink in your framing timber. Using this depth hole as a gauge for depth will give the 65mm screw 20mm of embedment in the bench top with 6mm before it punches through. See the below image as an example.

Once this countersink has been pre-drilled, you can use a Sutton Tools 3.0mm Long Series Jobber Drill Bit to put a pilot hole all the way through the framing timber. Make sure the benchtop is clear of the framing while doing this step. 

Once there is a hole all the way through the framing timber, place the framing timber in place on the benchtop and put the 3mm drill bit all the way through the framing timber and lightly mark the benchtop. Remove the framing timber and then drill a small pilot hole into the benchtop. You can use the same trick with the tape to ensure you drill 20mm in.

Now all the holes have been drilled, you can screw it all together.

Let me know what you think and if you require any clarification.

Jacob

[J-P]

Thanks @Dave-1  for your suggestions. @JacobZ - The countersink you said is exactly what i did to put the framing timber to shape (on the corners) and 10mm countersink was perfect. The only problem I have with attaching the frame to the seat (what you have suggested which aligns with why I already planned) is how to figure out when the 10mm countersink ends because it is pine and you can’t tell by the resistance. 

I think I will do some trials with the off cuts I have before trying on the real one. I have already spent few hours and will spend some more to make the panel look like a live edge.

hopefully I will finish in a couple of weekends.

The next challenge is how to match this stain of the table (I know it is very very hard to tell from pictures). It is more black brown with a satin finish. The first picture is a comparison of the panel to offcut coated with one coat of merbau stain varnish. Any insight on this is also appreciated

 

[JacobZ]

Hi @J-P,

The idea with the tape on the drill bit is that when drilling your countersink, the tape will hit the surface of the framing timber and indicate when to stop. Then when you're screwing the timber into place, you would simply need to drive the screw until it sits flush with the bottom of your countersunk hole. 

Practicing on an off cut is definitely worth doing, but you should be able to tell when to stop by simply looking at the depth of the screw. If the screw head sits flush with the bottom of the countersink hole, that's the right depth.

It is going to be difficult to get a perfect colour match because you are working with different species of timber but comparing them in person will be the best way to go about it. 

My suggestion is to take an offcut from when you're creating the live edge and bring it in store with you. There is usually a display board with the stains that you can put an offcut next to and compare the colours. 

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[J-P]

@JacobZ @Dave-1 @MitchellMc  -

finally finished this today. Got the panel cut from Bunnings. And did 30 def cut along sides with jigsaw and then used wood carving disk to create the different shapes. Smoothed with sanding disc.

Went with screws from panel to support and filled the holes with the saw dust from cuts and  glue from. It is still visible but that’s ok. Hope did a decent job with the stain matching with rich chocolate stain(5th pic)

only missing work is that the table finish more smooth and soft than the bench. Will probably a coat of something (will figure that out)

 

  

 

  

[EricL]

Hello @J-P 

Thank you very much for sharing that update, the bench seat looks fantastic! I'm sure @JacobZ, @Dave-1 and @MitchellMc will be happy to see the results.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Dave-1]

Good Morning @J-P 

Now thats a solid looking bench seat! Looks good and teh colouring looks a match

Did you put something like these under the feet Surface Gard 22mm Black Round Rubber Bumper - 6 Pack ? 

I like how you have sanded it back so no "ouchies" Nice Job.

Dave

[J-P]

Hi Dave - yes I put some thick felt to avoid contact with floor while moving. I spent good chunk of time in sanding because the bench would be at knee length for people and don’t want them to get a cut or scrape

[Dave-1]

@J-P 

Definently worth it, knee and look wise!

Dave

[J-P]

@Dave-1 @EricL @JacobZ @MitchellMc 

Bonus stool with the panel and other offcuts carved all around

 

[JacobZ]

Hi @J-P,

Thanks for sharing the stool you made to go along with your original bench seat.

It looks great. Hopefully you get some good use out of it in the future.

Jacob