How to build a bench seat for a dining table?

[jaiprak]

Hi There -

I am building a bench seat for my dining table and bought these legs - https://www.bunnings.com.au/rapidhome-30-x-45-x-6cm-black-la-paz-steel-tube-bench-seat-furniture-leg...

I need some help on what panel to choose. It would have to sit 3 adults (max case) - So about 250 - 300 Kg. Do i need to consider some sort of reinforcement for the panel. I also will stain it to match my dining table colour. Any suggestions would help.

Thanks

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @jaiprak 

Any chance you could do a rough drawing of the bench seat you have in mind? I have a feeling what I have in my head isnt matching up to what you are wanting to do.

Dave

[jaiprak]

Yes already thought about it after hitting reply before. Will get out later today

[jaiprak]

Got a little enthusiastic on this and took a break from work and drew this. How does this look? Since i drew this, i will also take feedback on the placement of screws in the supporting framing timber.

Thanks for your time and expertise - @Dave-1 @MitchellMc 

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @jaiprak 

beautiful work! And yeah I understand now (I was on a differant path of what you wanted)

Nothing to add to it other then maybe move the legs up against the yellow pieces of timber for stability more then anything.

Dave

[JacobZ]

Hi @jaiprak,

It looks like a good design that will make your bench seat very solid. I do have two very minor additions though.

Due to the length of the longer timbers, you should add another screw so there are four screws in each long member. 

Also, screw the framing timbers together so the load is transferred between the timbers. At present, they are not directly connected, so they do not act as one "bracing unit".

Very minor changes, but they will help to add strength with very minimal effort.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

[jaiprak]

Thanks @Dave-1 for your precious advice. I have incorporated your recommendation in teh design.

Thanks @JacobZ for your recommendation. I have incorporated in both bottom and side views. Will put the screws in equal distance from each other.

Will use 10g screws and 26mm panel.

[jaiprak]

@JacobZ / @Dave-1 / @MitchellMc - I finally started this project. Wanted to get a live edge panel but couldnt find one. So I am making one myself with the flat edge and jigsaw and some angular grinder wood carving disc. Will post the final outcome later.

But I got another question on how to drive the screws from the framing pine to the panel. The panel is 26mm white gum hardwood panel and the framing pine is 70mm. I have 10G 65mm screws. I will predrill the holes in the panel and the pine. What is the best way to drive the screws with an impact drill without coming over the other side and have max penetration. Any jig or way to know when exactly to stop the drill.

[JacobZ]

Hi @jaiprak,

It's great to hear you're now getting stuck into this project.

If you were drilling straight down through the hardwood panel into the pine framing, you would go through 26mm of hardwood panel and the screw would embed itself 39mm into the pine framing. 

When the screw sits flush with the hardwood top, you should then stop the drill.

If your concern is with the screw missing the pine framing, this can be avoided by carefully measuring and marking out your screw locations before predrilling your pilot holes.

Simply measure in from the end of the hardwood top and mark out the location of the framing with a pencil. Any pencil marks can be removed very easily with some light sanding, so there's no need to worry about marking the timber.

Let me know if you have any further questions along the way and don't forget to share some photos when your project is complete, it would be great to see the end result.

Jacob

[jaiprak]

I was planning on screwing from the pine frame to the panel (bottom to top) to avoid dealing with hole to file on the top. Is one way better than other?

[Dave-1]

Morning @jaiprak 

The only disadvantage this time that I can see is that the top of the seat is only 26mm thick, Its doable from underneath but just nmeans you will have to be cautious. For a drill I would use a torque drill over an impact drill (going into hardwood I have snapped a bunch of smaller screws is why)

That said I did do the same thing you are suggesting with my gabion bench seat as I did not want the screws to show. That was a 45mm top timber tho so I had a larger "fudge" space.

Dave