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Once the house renovations were complete, the next job was the outside starting with the front. First we ripped up the old driveway brick pavers and replaced it with a new design that included front to back pathways in exposed ag. Next we needed a front fence so that landscaping could then begin. We debated on a designed with an electric sliding gate over the driveway, but decided with a garage door as well to open each time it was going to be too much effort. So the new fence needed a return down the drive with a gate to enter the front off the property.
I had seen designs where the gate wasn't a feature which I really liked, so I had a go at coming up with my own design which, required a concealed plating latch.
100mm x 100mm Cyprus Pine Posts
90mm x 45mm H3 Treated Pine rails
75mm & 100mm Batten Screws
38mm x 38mm Rough Sawn Hardwood (540 for the front fence and an additional 120 for the two side of house returns)
60mm Gal Brads
60mm Outdoor Screws
50mm x 200mm x 2400mm Treated Pine Sleepers
Shovel
Mitre Saw
Multitool
Heavy duty 2-speed drill
Impact Driver
Circular Saw
1200mm and 2400mm Level
String Line
Wagner Spray Gun
Builders Black Plastic
Start Pickets
Hammer
Mallet
Tape Measure
Open Reel Tape Measure
Marker paint
First job was to mark out the ground using an open reel tape measure and marker paint. Then used star pickets and string lines to set out the straight lines at low and top heights.
Then begun digging 14 x 900mm deep post holes.
Once allowed to set in concrete for 24hrs, I ran string lines for each rail and marked them. The using a circular saw, multitool and chisel each point was checked out 90xmm x 45mm. The trickier ones were the 2 angled return posts.
The 90mm x 45mm rails were screwed not nailed into position as were the sleeper base boards.
While waiting on the first order of pickets I started laying out the steel edging for the garden and lawn edge.
I then started to order the 38mm x 38mm rough saw battens to be used as the pickets. I treated myself to a spray gun and applied a slightly watered down high quality clear decking oil.
I only had space against the fence 220 battens at a time which I rested against the neighbouring fence I had lined with black plastic. Then sprayed the decking oil to all 4 sides 3 times.
The battens were then temporary fixed in to place with gal brads, then screws to permanently secure them.
This was all repeated with two more lots of 220 battens.
Unfortunately I didn't like the treated pine rails against the Cyprus so I needed up painted then monument which would have been a lot easier prior to fixing the battens.
I then positioned steel edging along the front for a shallow garden. This design changed slightly after candles destroyed the native bottle brush on the nature strip.
I don't have any progress photos of the gate, but essentially I wanted to achieve a concealed gate design using a different approach as to how to unlatch the gate and automatically latch it again.
I used a floating self adjusting Gaiter gate latch mechanism and then practiced with coat hanger wire to get the right length and angle of the pul/release handle before making a permanent one from stainless steel.
I glued washers either side of the pull handle which not only looked neater but helps to guide the rod at the right angle.
I love garden lighting, so I installed a couple of high mounted surface mounted steps lights, one at the gate, front corner post and eventual letterbox side. The cables were semi-concealed in a channel made by a trim router.
How to open the gate wasn't so obvious to delivery drivers, so I needed to add a small sign of instruction so parcels weren't being left in the weather.
Once the main fence was finished I moved on to the left side of the driveway which incorporated the letterbox and then a return one at the front side of the house with a nook for the bins.
Finished the final plant out and mulching and added a drip watering system.
Hi @Nailbag
Thank you so much for sharing the details of this project. It is a beautiful fence, and I am super impressed with your gate latch.
Eric
Good Evening @Nailbag
Love that fence! Seriously you do nice work, the effort you have put into the individual fence palings really makes it pop. Love the latch but really appreciate how that fence looks.
900mm depth of holes for the fence posts oh yeah that fence isnt going anywhere soon.
Dave
Hi Nailbag, can you point me to the product you used as the battens/palings what type of timber it was. As you used 40x40 (x400) some products and prices don’t match the rough sawn I can find, plus I’m sure you didn’t spend $8k on battens.
Morning @Oneofus
My apologies your question highlighted a few errors in my post which I'll get rectified.
The couple of battens I measured for my project post were 40mm, but after measuring a stack more, most of them range between 35mm to 38mm. Looking at my notes the actual ordered size were 38mm x 38mm at 1.8m. But species was not guaranteed, so the size can vary from 35mm to 40mm.
Quantity wise, I actually ordered 3 lots of 220. 490 for the fence, 50 for the letter box side return and 120 for the two returns on the side of the house. They came from two suppliers due to availability over a few weeks to allow me time to stain and fit. Each order was just under $1,100.
My suppliers don't list them on their web site, but here is one I just Googled that does just for your info.
regards, Nailbag
Thank you so much for the open information!
Just reach out anytime if I can help anymore @Oneofus
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