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My son keeps asking when we're going to build him a 'proper treehouse' to expand his cubby on stilts in the garden so I figured the xmas break is a good time to start planning. I did stilt based job in the UK so some experience but this one feels like a proper tree-based job is in order, and the kids are noticably bigger now so something chunkier is in order!
Our old UK treehouse:
The tree next to our cubby here is pretty beefy and there's a handy junction for the branches at about the right height so I'm thinking:
- Platform sitting in the notch of the branches, 1-2 "beams" in the notch, and then 1 either side of the tree
- Some 'knee brace' diagonals
- Perhaps a horizontal tie to the cubby, not sure it'll really add much stability as the tree is so thick already
Most of the 101s seem to be American but essentially have chunky beams with slimmer joists on top: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/yards/21017559/how-to-build-a-tree-fort
Questions I've got already and would love some thoughts on!:
- The US tutorials all seem to have crazy amounts of proprietary tree bolts and brackets. Our tree is mature so I'm not anticipating huge growth, for bolting the beams and braces to the trunk what sort of lag bolts might be usable?
- Economic timber options for the beams, braces and joists
Hi @kitfriendesq,
Sounds like a fun project. I'm sure our resident Bunnings D.I.Y. experts will be happy to assist as soon as possible to you build the treehouse safely.
Let me also tag some other members who have taken on treehouse projects: @Dan_M, @mjkworldwide, @Jerry1, @Holdent
Check out @Dan_M's Building a treehouse discussion for some excellent techniques. And our collection of clever cubby house designs might also provide some inspiration.
Jason
Hello @kitfriendesq
I propose doing some measurements and drawing your framing plan on paper. From there you'll be able to see where you'll need to put the lag bolts. The store does carry some Everhang M12 x 120mm Zinc Plated Hanger Bolts, but if you are after something bigger you could use coach screws. The size of the bolts also depends on the size of the timber pieces you'll be using. I propose looking at 90 x45 H3 for your framing and 70x35 for the house walls and roofing.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
Current draft sketch - there'll have to be a good deal of 'on site configuration' to workout the cutouts etc for the real poinciana but this was a 'not wrong' sample model in Sketchup so I went with it.
This uses the 100mm diameter poles with:
- 2.4m uprights
- 3m cross beams - I've gone with 4 front to back to give about 600mm spacing for the deck
- 1.8m whatever-you'd-call-the-front-to-back-joist-type things - I've put one either side of the trunk in my model for now but in reality I think I can nestle one in the middle to put weight on the Y of the trunk which feels desirable.
Deck is currently modelled as https://www.bunnings.com.au/90-x-22mm-decking-h3-treated-pine-2-4m_p8032583
There's been a request for a spiral staircase from the cubby upwards but I may try and encourage the 'stakeholders' to simplify this aspiration 😂
@EricL @JacobZ / all - would love your inputs on:
- joints to use for the poles. I was thinking of strapping originally (a la https://www.bunnings.com.au/airco-30-x-0-8mm-x-30m-structural-galvanised-strapping_p0553627 )
- best timber to use to add some diagonal bracing for the uprights to connect to the beams and joists
Good Evening @kitfriendesq
Love the cubby house 
For some reason I thought Id seen this awhile back and commented. 😕
You have taken me back when I was a kid building treehouses and forts
Joints for the poles, I like notching and bolts. It has a solidness to it and feels more structually sound.
I like how the structure is seperate from the tree, trees move and its very hard to build something that covers both at the same time. The way you are going it gives the appearance of being in the treetops without hurting the tree and also without having to worry about the 5cm or more sway in the wind.
Are you going to have the ability to climb on the new horizonal section? Some sort of diagonal bracing is needed. You could always stay simple and use the same timber as you are for the decking. Its much more viewable and less likely to be run into by kids running around... or adults..
I have built a privacy screen/fort and even tho I have some diagonal bracing I should have more. If you throw yourself side to side up top you can feel it move a tiny bit.
Courtyard privacy fence and gate build
Courtyard privacy fence and gate build, Part 2
Is my build for a high Privacy screen, Tho the guys at work call it a fort
Dave
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