How to build a new deck where current pavers are?

[ricm]

Hi there,

Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated... We are building a new deck in an area with pavers in the back. We have an uneven area of pavers up against timber sleepers in the garden corner, my question is - what would you advise that we use to put under the decking to make the area level? If we put 'build tuff' as bases and attached the whole frame base to the side sleepers, would this work?  . 

[MitchellMc]

Hi @ricm,

I've been in contact with Ekodeck, and they've had feedback from installers that the boards can be curved and bent to a significant radius. You've got some relatively tight curves, but it should be possible to get them to suit. The boards can also be heated to allow tighter bends.

If you fix a fascia board at one end of your curve and bend it around it, how far off are you from making it fit? Rachet straps can help you pull it into position.

Mitchell

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @ricm 

Mmmm thinking

First option

So instead of the amount of curves you want, how about reducing the curve distance down to a tighter bend with longer straight runs. That way you are now only deal with a smaller area. With the smaller, sharper bends The facia will be easier to install. Now the problem is how to do the sharper bend?

Second option

How about switching from the eco-deck to a differant material for the facia/trim area?

Brutus 50 x 6mm x 2.4m Building Moulding Cover Trim  You would need two of these side by side but it sounds like its a lot more fleiable and is only 6mm thick.

Which leads me to teh next part of the suggestion, head on into your local Bunnings and walk around the timber yard, see what materials that can be used that have "flex"" to them and can handle external conditions. I am thinking of some of the thinner firbro look materials and wondering if they could be used? That way you get to keep your long bends the way you want them.

So easy answer is to change material for the facia. It could solve your issue

Dave

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @ricm 

I hadnt refreshed my page when I was writing the response, I would strongly suggest to go with @MitchellMc's recomendations, especially for consistancy. I use ratchet straps when im getting my mmerbau boards straight a LOT. and it really works. If you look through my Privacy screen project it shows how I used the ratchets.

Dave

[ricm]

So I got through the fascia fiasco, thank you to all for your suggestions. 

Now, Im feeling totally deflated because I started cutting the decking boards and well, made so horrible mistakes. Probably to do with my lack of knowledge of how circular saws, guides, jigsaws work. Anyway, I have tried both main saw types and Ive succeeding in butchering my carefully laid decks and first section of fascia (melted and scratched the plastic). Will need to replace some of that and maybe even some decking. See pics. 

 

I seriously don't know why I tried a circular saw, spent $80 on a composite blade and guide track ($54) but Ive damaged both! I think it is only for straight lines because when I tried to go around the bends it started damaging both the behind and the front board when you try to turn. It started so neatly with the first board. I understand why the jig is better but Ive bent all my razor pieces out of recognition now. I just don't know what to spend/try next.

Any advice guys????  "Yes Ric, try painting pictures or stamp collecting instead!" 

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @ricm 

The Facia is working tho I must admit I am a little confused  why you are using a circular saw? I thought you had decided to go the route of a jigsaw?

For curved cuts I would use a jigsaw and for straight sections a circular saw, if a piece has a curve in it and a straight section then id stay with the jigsaw. I would also take my time with the cut and not push it through, it may feel nicer to "get it done" but you will end up with a nicer cut if you let it take to the composite itself.

We all have learning curves, you are working with a material outside your normal range so there will be hiccups Look at what you had (an all over the place backyard) to what you have done now. You may change things if you were to do it again and all that means is that you have learnt new skills!

Hard work I know but picture it when you have finished, any marks or chinks in the material tell a story You can stand around yacking about them at any BBQ

Dave

[EricL]

Hi @ricm 

Thank you very much for the update, looking at the pictures you've posted it's looking very good. I totally agree with @Dave-1's recommendation and words of wisdom. Use the circular saw for straight cuts only and the jig saw for curves.

If you are after a nice clean finish, you can always manually sand the cut edge to remove any cutting errors. Due to its proximity to water, I don't recommend using an electric sander as it might accidentally slip out of your hand and land in the water. 

My best advice is to let the tool set the pace, there is no need to use extreme force when using a jigsaw or circular saw. Keep your hand steady and focus on your cutting line. Every panel cut neatly is a panel you won't have to adjust or go back to.

Your almost at the end of your project, just take it one day at a time. You can do it!

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[ricm]

Thanks @Dave-1 - I must admit having slept on it I don't feel as deflated as yesterday. You're right, it's been a long journey and I have learned new things for sure. It's that bit where you think, great a nice, easy rewarding finish (at least you think that in your head lol) - the reasoning on the change to circular is two-fold, first I was wearing out the blades on the JS and then I asked a guy in Bunnings Tools and he questioned why I was trying to use a JS to cut the ends of a deck! Anyway, I didn't go out and buy a circular saw, just the blade. 

I think I need to go back and look for a composite blade for the JS and take it slow as you say. 

Thank you also @Eric  - really appreciate both of your support.

[Dave-1]

Morning @ricm 

I have had discussions with The nit and bolt person at Bunnings where I was sure I knew more so then they did Turns out we were missing each others meaning in the conversation. I actually went back and appoligised afterwards lol the only problem is they didnt even remember the discussion! For me It sat in my head, for them they deal with us all the time, one after the other so they give the best advice and tehn move on.

Its sometimes hard to describe the issue to another person. When you say composite blade for the jigsaw is that because you are cutting through the eco deck? I thought any timber blade should work?

Dave

[JacobZ]

Hi @ricm,

I've had a quick look around and have found our supplier Diablo Tools produces this 100mm Tungsten Carbide Jig Saw Blade for Composite Decking. It is not currently available in stores but it is likely possible to order.

If you'd like to explore this option you could speak to the team at Special Orders who will be able to get in touch with Diablo Tools to enquire about price and availability in your area.

Tungsten carbide tipped (TCT) blades seem to work the best with composite materials, so at a pinch, you will likely get more life out of this Diablo 132mm Tungsten Carbide Jig Saw Blade for General Purpose.

@Dave-1 Any timber blade will work, but from experience, composite timber blunts saw blades surprisingly fast. I believe it has something to do with the density of composite timber when compared with 100% timber products.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Jacob

[Dave-1]

Thank you @JacobZ 

And I just learned something new! Always a good day when that happens.

Dave