How to anchor metal gate posts above ground into cement?

[Jaden]

Hello,

I am looking to build my first narrow side gate with brick walls either side, just behind the downpipe. The total width of the walkway is 1.12m. 

I would prefer to use steel posts at least 1800mm high, anchored to the cement and brick wall. 

The concrete (32mpa) was poured on September 28th 2024. Concrete depth of 13cm.

The issue I have is that the cement isn't level on the left side with lighter coloured bricks. It needs packing of around 6-10mm. The right side seems to be fairly level.  

Originally I was planning to use protectoral-50-x-50-x-1900mm-black-aluminium-pool-and-garden-flanged-fence-post but now I am unsure how I would level the cement to have proper contact with the post flange. 

Therefore I started looking into the simpson-strong-tie-90-x-90mm bases. Would that type of post base be a better solution and is it suitable for a metal post? Looking to use a Dynabolt 70mm or so into the concrete. Along with anchoring the post to the brick wall with a bracket of some kind. 

I am planning to build the gate similar to the Cypress arch gate 1800mm but instead using a Fortress Gate 1650mm frame.

Thank you for taking the time to read this. I will appreciate any help I can get. 

[Jaden]

Hello, 

I finally have some time to post about building the gate.

Metal frame 

Fortress Gates 1650mm Gate E Frame End 

x3 Fortress Gates 1m Connecting Rail 

I used the Surface Gard 25mm Black Square Plastic Internal Chair Tip to plug the opening of the shorter rail, where the padlock is attached. 

Painting metal frame

Dy-Mark 350g Grey MetalPro Primer 

Dy-Mark 350g Silver MetalPro Gal - Grey 

Deadbolt

Pinnacle 150 x 12mm Galvanised Steel Double Eye Padbolt 

Zenith 14G x 22mm Galvanised Hex Head Metal Screws 

Cladding

Spotted Gum decking boards (86x19mm) from Sunbury Bunnings

Pre-drilled countersunk holes using P&N 10G Quickbit TCT Cut Smart Countersink Drill Bit 

Boards attached to metal frame using Zenith 10G x 30mm Galvanised Countersunk Head Metal Screws 

Prepping Spotted Gum boards (As I changed from an oil based to water based)

Intergrain 4L UltraPrep Tannin And Oil Remover 

Intergrain 1L UltraPrep Timber Cleaner (Garden Safe) 

Intergrain 4L UltraPrep Primer & Sealer 

Intergrain 250ml Natural UltraDeck Timber Decking Oil - Natural (A 1L can is plenty, used a little more than half. 

Steps:

• Built the metal frame 
• Attached the frame to metal post to ensure enough clearance (Frame easily pulls off hinges to install cladding).
• Painted the frame to hide the dark grey coatings around most of the weld joints from the manufacturer (As I wanted a silver gal look).
• Decided to prep the Spotted Gum boards. They come pre-oiled, but I wanted to change to a water based decking oil.

         So used in order: UltraPrep Tannin and oil remover, UltraPrep timber cleaner, UltraPrep sealer and primer, Ultra Deck 'Natural' timber oil. 

• Pre-drilled countersunk holes in Spotted Gum boards
• Laid out all the boards with spacings on the metal frame, marking the holes to pre-drill the metal frame.
• Attached the boards to the frame with metal countersunk screws.  

I can confirm that the metal posts installed above ground are very sturdy.

Just a caution: Since I installed the cladding to the frame before anchoring to the metal posts, the whole unit is heavy to carry over and lift back onto the fence post hinges. 

A benefit of having a heavier door is that it doesn't blow around in the wind as easily, it is very sturdy and overall the whole unit doesn't rattle around in the wind. 

[JacobZ]

Hi @Jaden,

Thank you for sharing the details of your gate build.

You've done a magnificent job and have created what looks to be an incredibly sturdy gate with fantastic looks to match.

Congratulations on a job well done.

Jacob