Gyprock Residential Installation Guid the Red book 2

[emmab1986]

Hi guys,

I have another question regarding the installation of a gyprock plasterboard for the garage ceiling: Is Gyprock Level 3 Finish the right level for the cavity work, I mean do level 3 finish requirements correctly guide to installing the plasterboard for the garage?

Many thanks

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @emmab1986 

A  gyprock level  1 to 5 simply refers to the finish standards of a plaster board job.

In a house I would aim for the second-best level 4 where the wall is taped up and smooth ready for semi-gloss paint.

So, I am not sure what you mean by cavity work wardrobe area internals maybe?  But the answer is if you see the work how good of a finish do you want.?  If the area is tight and hard to work in, I might opt for level 3 as it will hurt me physically to do better in tighter rarely seen places.

But any blemishes left behind may haunt you and will be best to do Level  4 as far as you can.

Hope this  helps/

[emmab1986]

Thanks, that's very helpful.

Gyprock Leve 4: when you do the installation, it seems adhesive not mandatory, am I right? Also the back-lock, only 3 or more joint recess need the back-lock. do you count the joint recess in east-west or south-north?  e.g. if east-west direction has 3 or more, the back-lock is mandatory, am I right?

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @emmab1986 

Adhesive is  everything for long term fixing to the back blocks, sheeting and trusses its the screws are the short term fixing  until the glue sets.  So any back blocks require full glueing. 

My  house   used little to no glue 15 years later resulted in a sagging roof. 

It is not necessary to back block recessed wall Joints.  Only ceiling and butt joins,

The Australian standard states that any joints that span at 600mm need to back-blocked. Joints that span over 450mm only need to back-blocked if there are over 3 ceiling joints in the room. I think  that is  what you mean  re  east west vs  north south.  In short the bigger the roof the more back blocks  and they are a part of the standard, (install them as you put up the sheets  or later if you can  crawl into the roof cavity.)

If it is your  place back block every thing you can for a better job.

[emmab1986]

Thank you so much for your advice!!

The house was built in 2008, and a plumber was working on the roof found no back-block and a missing adhesive. When I told him that the house was built in 2008, he said no back-block was required, isn't it right? I read the Gyprock Guide Table 2 current version, it said the adhesive is optional and the back-block is required with conditions, however, this is a current edition. Would you be able to tell me back in 2008 there is no back-block required? Many thanks!

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @emmab1986 

I see what your saying.  Sadly, I am not sure of the actual building codes back then that horse has bolted. Even if the plaster just finished the job they may not improve the standard of the work they did.  Other companies will block at almost every opportunity that's why we need the trades with proven  reputations,  

As I said my roof started to give way sag due to the lack of glue to the rafters. All I can do is fix it so my place is good to go.

For you what do you want to do to meet your standards  re the roof ?  Thats the way forward.

[emmab1986]

Thank you so much. 

You are absolutely right. If I built my house, I would go to the best options no matter if it's overly done. Sadly, the builder built my house.

Yes, I fully understand what you said. Thanks for your time and your patience to address my questions.

Happy New Year!

[JacobZ]

Hi @emmab1986,

It looks like our knowledgeable member @Jewelleryrescue has already provided answers to all of your questions.

If there is anything else we can assist with, please don't hesitate to reach out.

Jacob