Cubby house timber quality check

[bornToDIY]

Hi Bunnings Workshop community

I bought a cubby house to assemble recently.

I opened the boxes and was surprised to see significant cracks in some of the main timber parts, and filler used to patch long gaps sections (made by factory cuts maybe).

Just want to get some opinions on whether this wood is of sufficient quality / safe, and if it might survive the varying weather in Melbourne.  Wondering whether to push for a refund/replacement or just assemble it.

Thanks

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi all

I being on the tools  working during the cooler monthes trying to complete projects and starting new  ones  before the summer heat.

I should upload  photos later..

Mean  while @bornToDIY  great  work on partial refund.

Your cutting the timber to the  original cubby plan  just with thicker posts  so thats  great.

Bunnings understandably will only do  basic cross cuts square as a guide so make sure they are  cut longer than you plan requires  to allow for an angled off cut.

But this  is a time  for your skills to grow @bornToDIY  using a  basic flat bladed long  carpenters saw you can cut it your self at the correct angle near perfectly. 

Power saw not required I still frequently  use  hand tools like saws too so much easier for one of cuts..  So simple too just pick them up and saw away.  But I use a  sharp chain saw for the thicker  posts as a  time saver for multiple cuts. but NOT for a novice DIyer as Chain saw needs precise control on such a cut as not to ruin it.

If you have the old  original post is is a simple matter to lay it onto the new timber and draw the  angle on the  new post and cut yourself.

Or while the angled original  timber is laying on the new post  clamp the timbers together and run the saw blade along the angle cutting the same angle using old post as a saw guide.  (Note if your angle cuts are not prefect in angle  or smooth  there is not a  problem really so dont fret it simply use some  outdoor gap filler on post top where it joins the roof to hide the imperfections we all  have those days. The strength of the structure wont be diminished.

Make  sure the butts of the timber are flush with each other before you cut other wise the post will be wrong length.

 Plan z  if you dont have the original posts to get the angles  Simple lay two uprights on a flat ground parrallel (measure this)  Lay them out spaced the same distance as to ground posts with the butts at same level ( lay them out on your drive way as it might have staight line to  put butts too). Now use two timbers to mimic the roof angles while on the ground and draw them onto the timber your want to cut.

Basically you are creating a full size mock up 1:1  of the cubby on the ground on its side to  get angles.  Now you have post angle for the other 2 corner posts and the two wall mid posts .

I

[EricL]

Hi @bornToDIY 

I'm sorry but the shop saws can only do straight cuts and not angled cuts. I'm in agreement with @Jewelleryrescue, this would be an excellent opportunity to improve your D.I.Y skills by cutting the timber yourself. My best suggestion would be to do some practice cuts on some off cut timber so that you'll have a feel of how to cut at an angle.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @JoeAzza for their recommendations.

Please remember to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles and a mask when working on your project. 

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Dave-1]

Good Morning @bornToDIY 

I was looking at your issue yesterday and what a pain for a company to try.

A couiple of questions and maybe an easy answer.

Do you still have the original timbers with the angle that sits near the roof?

Do you have a handsaw? Or Circular saw? Or a Drop saw (potentially the easiest buut the most expensive tool to have)

I would buy some pine lengths from bunnings that match the length needed then (after a few practice cuts as @EricL suggested ) Have a go at an angled cut.

-Its treated pine so it wont be super hard to saw.

-If you use the orginal piece to mark out on the new piece you will see what needs to be done. (If you dont have it we can guestimate it)

So on the length of post you purchase, cut the angled piece first, that way if something goes wrong you can try again before getting the overall length with a straight cut.

- Once you have marked the new post whith the old post I would suggest to set your circular saw to its max depth cut and do one side 

- Flip the timber over and cut the other side. Your cuts should meet up and if you are lucky cut through the whole thing. If not then your hand saw comes into play for the last bit in the middle. 

- You can use a hand saw to cut the whole depth if dont want to use a circular saw. Workout and a half if you are not use to sawing but satisfying when done (also its going to be pine so an easy timber to saw through.)

The highlighted bit in pink is the part you will half cut through and then flip to cut the other side. There is an adjustment depth on the top of the coping of the circular saw if you look around at it. Some kind of butterfly nut which will lower the base plate or raise it depending on how deep you want to cut something.

Dave

[bornToDIY]

Hi

Thanks again for the advice!

I ended up just using the posts I had to hold the front part of the roof up - less hassle.

Before I drill them into the roof, I'd like to know what I should use to waterproof the space where upper post joins with the lower post (see photo).

I don't want any water to get in and sit there.

A friend said I could use this in between the posts: https://www.bunnings.com.au/bondall-1l-monocel-in-ground-timber-protector_p0039110

Are there any other methods or products you recommend for waterproofing between the posts, or in general?

I have read this thread too.  I'm thinking of buying a tarp.

Cheers

[Dave-1]

Good Morning @bornToDIY 

Nice work Your friend is right you could use that inground timber protection but it could look pretty messy up there plus you may find you cant paint over it. The timber slats for the roof will protect the posts as much as the rest of the cubby house. Id probarly give 3 or 4 coats of exterior paint to the top of the posts to seal it more then use the black protector. 

Is the timber slats like a toung and groove? And what are you painting the roof with?

Dave

[MitchellMc]

Hi @bornToDIY,

As mentioned by @Dave-1, a few coats of paint should do the job.

Mitchell