How to install hanging rail?

[ClaireChen]

Hi, we are trying to use the space, how can we put a hanging rail at the bottoms like what we have now? or any other suggestions? thank you guys

 

[JacobZ]

Hi @usrreddy972,

The wall will almost certainly be the better option, but we should determine what it is made of before deciding on a method.

Fixing to the wall is usually better as it doesn't add additional weight to the shelf, however, in your circumstance, you'll need a mid-support bracket which will have to be screwed to the bottom of the shelf so a combination of the two will be best.

You can use a Sandleford 19mm Chrome Pillar Centre for the mid-support with Sandleford 19mm Modern Rod Fitting Brackets on the walls. The provided screws should be fine, but if you find the screws for the mid-support bracket will poke through the top of the shelf due to their length, you can use these Zenith 8G x 16mm Countersunk Head Timber Screws to screw it in place.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

[alterily]

Hi could I ask a question?

After reading this thread I am planning on hanging a rail directly from a shelf I have. The shelf is well supported and I checked using this site https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/ and it should easily be strong enough to handle the wieght of the rail plus clothes. The shelf is quite long and I wanted to hang a 2.7m rail from it. I was thinking of getting 2 end pieces and 3 pillar centre brackets. 

Could I use the included screws or would I need different screws?

the shelf is 16mm thick Melamine.

thank you so much for your help 

[JacobZ]

Hi @alterily,

Thank you for your question.

I can't say I've seen the "Sagulator" before, but it looks like a great tool. Thank you for sharing. At that span, three central pillars and two end pillars would give your rail a good amount of strength. 

As 16mm melamine is the standard material used in cupboards and wardrobes, the provided screws will be designed for use in this material and there is no real need to change screws. They will include screws that are very similar to these Zenith 6G x 15mm Countersunk Head Timber Screws if there's any reason you need a few more.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[alterily]

Thank you so much for replying!

another quick question, would I need to drill a pilot hole or could I just drill using the screw?

[JacobZ]

Hi @alterily,

It's always best to put a pilot hole as this minimises the potential for the chipboard to splinter or fracture.

If you take the screws to the tool shop, the team will be able to help you select a suitable diameter drill bit based on the screws. You want something that is about the same thickness as the shaft of the screw, but smaller than the thread.

I imagine something like this Sutton Tools 2mm Viper Jobber Drill Bit will work just fine.

Make sure you put a mark on your drill bit to ensure you don't drill through the other side of the melamine. You can put a piece of tape about 12mm down from the point of the drill bit to act as a depth gauge. If you go any deeper, there is potential you can buckle the backside of the melamine, so stopping a few millimetres short is worth doing.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob