How to add floating shelves in pantry?

[deancarlo]

Hi guys.

Im looking at finally adding some shelving to our pantry.

We want floating shelves and want your advice on my plans - mainly on the framing and strength.

I will be using Porta 42 x 42mm https://www.bunnings.com.au/porta-42-x-42mm-1-2m-dar-square-general-purpose-pine_p0021181 for all the framing.

My questions

• Will screwing into the studs be enough? Do I do 1 or 2 screws per stud
• Does my framing look correct? Do I need to add/remove/change anything?
• What type of screws do I need when attaching to studs?
• What screws are recommended when creating the frame (mostly pocket screws for joinery)
• Will each shelf hold around 20-30kg comfortably? We want to place some unused appliances to the top
• I do want to maintain the floating shelf look so if any reinforcement is needed can these be hidden?

Current state of my pantry

Proposed pantry

Identified wall studs

Shelf Dimensions

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @deancarlo. It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about installing floating shelves.
 

Floating shelves can add a modern look, but given your intended weight load, here are some considerations to ensure strength and stability.

First, screwing into the studs is typically enough for support, especially with the 42x42mm framing you've chosen. However, since you’re looking to hold heavier items like appliances (20-30kg), it wouldn’t hurt to add some additional fixings into the plasterboard for extra stability, particularly in areas that may need reinforcement, like the bottom left corner of your shelf dimension image. This will help evenly distribute the weight and reduce any strain on the framing.

Your framing design looks solid, especially if it’s fully anchored into the studs. To attach the frame to the studs, I’d recommend using robust screws like these Zenith 14G x 125mm Galvanised Bugle Batten Screws. They’re designed for heavy-duty framing applications and should securely anchor your shelves to the wall.

For joining the frame itself, standard timber screws will work well. Zenith 10G x 50mm Galvanised Countersunk Head Timber Screws are a good choice, especially if you’re going for pocket hole joinery, as these screws offer solid holding power and keep a low profile. If you're using a pocket hole jig, follow any specific recommendations for screws, as pocket holes typically require specialised screws for secure and flush connections.

Regarding the weight load, 20-30kg is a fairly heavy load for floating shelves, as these are traditionally suited for lighter items. With the right anchoring, it may be possible, but for long-term durability, I’d recommend keeping the weight as low as possible or only placing heavier items on the lower shelves, closer to the support points. 

Lastly, be sure to wear safety equipment—gloves, eye protection, and a dust mask—when handling tools and screws, especially when working with power tools for drilling and cutting the frame.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell
 

[deancarlo]

Thanks Mitchell.

looks like I’m on the right track then.

regarding the extra anchoring, what do you recommend for that. I’ve got. Bunch of Ramset wallmates twist n locks. I read on other projects toggles were recommended.

also did you mean the side where there is only 1 stud?

And I just wanted to be sure with the weight load. I don’t think I’ll ever have more than 15kg on a shelf but wanted to be safe than sorry in the future 

[MitchellMc]

Hi @deancarlo,

I'd recommend adding toggles in the locations marked below. 

I don't think you'll have any issues up to 20kg. But, the more you place on the shelves after that the more risk you have of failure.

Mitchell

[deancarlo]

Just a little update on this. I went overseas and came back to start this project last week.

I went down a different route as I wasn’t 100% confident when I started this (there was just too much sag when I was putting the frame in). Originally had plans of using 42mm frame but decided on 30mm. This may have contributed to the weaker frame as I hoped to put 2 screws per stud but only did 1.

I had some particle board left over which I used to add a bit more stability to the shelves. I also used 36mm ply wood (gluing 2x 18mm together) for the frame no touching the walls.

There was a tiny bit of flex/sag where the shorter shelf corner had no support so I decided to add a bracket. I’m sure it would have been fine without but wanted to be safe than sorry.

pretty happy with it so far and will be adding more shelves.

My next concern was with my Airfryer as it is placed under the shelf and the heat can cause the shelf to get a bit warm above. Do you have any recommendations on what I can place under the shelf to protect it? 

 

 

[JacobZ]

Hi @deancarlo,

Nice work with your shelf, it looks fantastic.

The addition of a bracket on that leading edge was a good decision. Without a wall to support it like you have on the left, there's a lot of pressure on that corner that could cause issues over time. The bracket will definitely help with this.

In terms of heat protection on the underside of the shelf, you could try applying a heat mat like this Zeal Silicone Hot Mat Large to the underside of the shelf. I imagine there would still be some heat transfer, but it would certainly help to absorb and dissipate the heat before it transferred into the timber.

Let me know what you think and thank you for sharing the update.

Jacob