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How to install Ryobi Link in a steel frame garage?

hammerandnails
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How to install Ryobi Link in a steel frame garage?

I'm embarking on a project to organise my garage and I've decided to install the Ryobi Link system. However, my garage has a bit of a unique challenge - it (& the home) is built with a steel frame.The Ryobi Link system being quite wide means that some of the mounting points will need to attach directly to the steel frame, while others will anchor into the plaster.

 

I'm reaching out to this knowledgeable community for advice on the best approach for this installation:

 

  1. For Fixing to Steel Frame: What type of screws or bolts are recommended for securing items directly to steel? I'm looking for options that provide a strong, reliable hold that are also easy to install.

  2. For Anchoring in Plaster Walls: What are the best anchors or screws for plaster walls that can adequately support the weight and usage of the Ryobi Link system? I want to ensure a secure fit that won't loosen over time or damage the plaster.

  3. General Tips: Are there any specific tools or techniques I should use for this kind of installation?

I appreciate any guidance, tips, or product recommendations you can offer to help make this installation successful and secure. Thanks in advance for sharing your expertise!

Re: Seeking Advice on Installing Ryobi Link in a Steel Frame Garage

Hi @hammerandnails if you refer to my original post I suggested using these Ramset plasterboard anchors as they are extremely strong and once installed, the fixing screw can be removed without effecting its grip. Drill an 8mm hole first in to the plasterboard and then use a screwdriver to drive in the fastener firmly. Then drive the screw in which will pull in the fixing plate to the plasterboard. Ue a screwdriver for this as well. the the screw can be removed to mount the rail. As a tip test the fastener operation prior to using it as some can get a bit sticky at the point that the fixing plate rotated 90deg.

 

Along the top and bottom of each rail there is a shallow track that is meant for additional or alternative mounting points to the 6 obvious ones. This allow for shorter length screws with flat heads. You can use a washer to max out any difference to the head diameter and slot opening. Just drill through the slot in as many points as you require. These slots also give a better chance of matching where a stud or noggin might be.

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