How to fill a large gap between roof and exterior wall?

[Denaz]

Hi all,

Hoping for some advice, I've spent days looking through google and am at a loss.

The house we bought had a outdoor room/shed added on to the porch, just an extension really. They basically just added in two walls and called it a shed. The issue is that they have left a gap between the newly installed walls and the tiled roof (about 18cm) and I can't figure out the best way to fill it.

Doesn't need to be fancy, as it is being used as a shed but just something that will keep the dust, wind and weather out. Am not expecting it to be 100% sealed, just enough to keep out dust and anything that the wind might push up under eaves. As the eaves are hanging down on the opposite side of the wall, not a lot comes through, but on windy days the dust comes straight in and I'm imagining the rain will also when we get some gusty storms.

I was thinking of just stuffing some Earthwool Insulation up there as I just can't think of anything else that's simple and easy.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated

Thanks!

[JacobZ]

Hi @Denaz,

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community.

I suggest you consider attaching some Zenith 20mm Zinc Plated Angle Brackets to either side of the rafters then attaching DAR Pine of an adequate size to cover the gap. You might need to cut the timber down to get a perfect fit. Any additional gaps can be filled with expanding foam

Alternatively, you could take a strip of Sarking and use Pryda Foil Fix Strips to nail it to the top stud plate and then to the battens under the tiles. That would effectively block off the area.

Is it possible to get some photos showing the gap from the outside? This may provide some more information that our members can use to find a solution.

Jacob

[Denaz]

Thanks @JacobZ!

The sarking might be a way to go, I could see that working. Although filling the gap with wood and foam could also work, both really helpful ideas thankyou! 

I have some more pictures from different angles as well at the other wall and from the outside

 

[JacobZ]

Hi @Denaz,

From the angle of the first photo, it looks like the roof batten and wall line up quite well, this will certainly make it fairly easy to go with the sarking option.

Allow me to tag some helpful members to see if they have any other ideas - @Noyade @Nailbag @Jewelleryrescue 

Jacob

[Denaz]

Thanks again @JacobZ , really do appreciate the help!

One question, if I was to go with the timber option, do you think it would be smarter for me to use a treated pine given it is open(ish) to the elements and the possibility of termites?

I think that first photo in my second reply shows the dust build up from only a few weeks from putting those shelves in! Would really love to avoid having to clean that mess out every fortnight haha

[JacobZ]

Hi @Denaz,

Yes, a treated pine would certainly be better in this application. The reason I pointed you towards DAR pine is that they come in a variety of sizes that are more likely to fit the gap. Unfortunately, Bunnings policy doesn't allow for cutting timber to sizes below 300mm as it places the cut shop team member at risk.

The best solution to this problem would be to install fibre cement eave sheeting such as Cemintel 2400 x 450 x 4.5mm Eaves Lining directly to the rafters on the outside and to sheet the ceiling on the inside using Supaceil, but this is quite an involved process and may require the assistance of a trained professional depending on how confident you are.

If you wanted a more weather resistant solution than the DAR pine, that's still quick and easy, I'd advise using marine plywood, H3 treated pine, or LOSP treated pine, however you must note that you would have to cut it to size yourself.

If you need further advice, don't hesitate to get in touch.

Jacob

[Denaz]

Thanks again @JacobZ 

Definitely going to go with the pine option I think, trying to keep costs down so rather avoid getting the professionals involved haha

I measured it out over the weekend and its about 170mm from the wall to the tiles. So I might get the H3 and fill the rest with spray foam, per your suggestion. Do you think that would work?

Regarding getting it cut instore... is this not available with treated pine products? Never had anything cut instore so not sure of the in and outs of it

[EricL]

Hello @Denaz 

Please note that the shop saws are not designed to make precision cuts. If you are after exactly 170mm it's best to have the timber cut just for transportation and cutting the timber at home with your saw. In this manner you can account for any variances the gap might have. Using self-expanding foam to fill in the gaps will be perfectly fine.

Please remember to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles and a mask when working on your project.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Denaz]

Hi again @EricL / @JacobZ , 

I've got everything I need, screws, brackets, timber, etc. However I'm really struggling to use my drill given the limited space and the fact that the horizontal beam at the top of the wall is actually sloped to match the slope of the roof. 

Anyways, do you think I could get away with using liquid nails instead of the brackets? Would save a lot of hassle given I have 10 sections to put up but just want to make sure it's suitable and would work? Obviously screws and brackets would be best, but hoping the liquid nails could be a simpler alternative:)

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @Denaz 

Just came across your question, I would probarlly try and persevere with the screws and brackets as you shouldnt have to come back and "maintain" it for a longer period. I presume you are using the drill to predrill the screw holes? and that the timber trusses are hardwood bythe look of it? I know how you feel but its def worth it knowing you have done the right thing for a job. 

Dave