How to repair bathroom wall for tiling?

[Josh7]

Hello, 

We recently had a plumber repair a leaking pipe in our bathroom. I now want to prepare the wall myself as best I can for the tiler to limit the amount of time he/she needs to tile (time = money). 

Please have a look at the attached photo. I am seeking advice on how to fill the hole. I am concerned that cement applied straight on to the piping will be an issue when it sets and the pipes expand a little...stress fracture over time? 

Regards

Josh 

[EricL]

Hello @Josh7 

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us and thanks for sharing your question about your bathroom wall.

Looking at the fitting attached to your floor am I correct in guessing that a free-standing bath was located in this section of the bathroom? If there was some form of bath located in this section, waterproofing would need to be applied to the walls and floor. Technically it would need to be a single homogenous layer applied to that section to prevent water from penetrating into the walls and floor of your bathroom. If you are thinking of just patching that section it will not be an effective fix as different branded waterproofing layers often do not work well together.

I propose speaking to your plumber and tiler about this issue and how you'll be able to address it. Generally speaking, all of the tiles in that section will need to removed and the surface flattened before a new water proofing layer is applied. Please keep in mind that should a major leak occur, and it is discovered that the waterproofing membrane was not properly installed your insurance might not cover the damage. 

Regarding the chase cut into the wall, using ordinary mortar to cover it will be fine, as the copper pipe will not move much. But it is always prudent to double check with your tiler before you carry out D.I.Y. repairs. Please note that the application of waterproofing will need to be carried out by a trained and registered tradesperson as it will need to be sighted and signed off.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[Dave-1]

Good Evening @Josh7 

I would be having a chat with your tiler before you start, they should know what waterproofing needs to be done and also what can cover the pipes. ( @EricL has already given the answer, Im just stepping through the same steps I would be doing if it was my place)

Making sure that the waterproofing will be up to spec for your insurance is one reason I would get a professional to do that part. I think it would be a shame to go to the effort and a few years down the track have a leak only to find that the company wont pay as it didnt have a certificate 😕

Has you tiler addressed the material that is already on the walls and removing it back before the waterproofing? 

Dave

[Nailbag]

Hi @Josh7 

It's difficult to tell from the photo, but I am assuming the plumber has rebated the pipes adequately that they are not proud of the wall. If they are, then you will need to speak to him to rectify this. Otherwise there shouldn't be any concern. The pipes don't expand/contract.

The replacement tile adhesive quite possibly wouldn't be applied where the new pipes are, so that will increase clearance behind the tile and so no issue there. But check with the tiler.

The removed tiles appear to have been removed shallow so not to have damaged the waterproofing. But I would have this checked by the tiler, being that the left is possibly a vanity wall by the looks with that GPO and the right a wall for a free-standing tub. Any rectification of the waterproofing will be minimal. Just need to confirm with who is your waterproofer.

Nailbag

[Josh7]

Thanks Eric. They aren't copper pipes (hard to see I know). One is typlex and the other is SmartX-P Plex from Bunnings. Will mortar on these materials be okay still or do I need to feed the pipe through pipe insulation e.g. K-Flex from Bunnings? It's frustrating as the previous owners did their own Reno and used that rubbish typlex stuff. 

[Josh7]

Thanks Dave. That's great advice. I will get a tiler in. My father-in-law was a farm boy so wants to do everything himself but the insurance is a good point. Cheers

[Josh7]

Hey mate, many thanks. One pipe is slightly proud of the wall which I was concerned about. I really don't want to pay a plumber to come out to extend the pipe work. I think I can do that part. It's the black pipe which is the one running along the bottom and is in front of the grey pipe shooting upwards. I need to chisel some more brick out (behind where the pipes are going vertical) and extend the black pipe so it goes behind the grey pipe when vertical. Hope that makes sense. I'm hoping the pipe is easy to remove from the fitting. 

[EricL]

Hello @Josh7 

According to the SmarteX website FAQ It is fine to concrete over the pipe, as long as the pipe is running vertical, not horizontal. If the pipe needs to run horizontally with concrete over it, then copper tube is recommended. Just a friendly reminder that any plumbing work must be carried out by a licensed plumber for safety and compliance.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric