Would you buy a Mitre Saw or Circular Saw first?

[HunterProperty]

Hi,

I am planning on undertaking some projects at home (build pool pump enclosure, replace battens) that I believe a circular saw will be able to accomplish. However I have some further projects in mind that may require a mitre saw so it had me thinking would I be best to buy a mitre saw to complete all works or is there something I am overlooking/not understanding between the two that would require me buy both.

Thanks in advance!

[HunterProperty]

Great advice thank you! I popped into Bunnings today and bought the corded ozito cicular saw. The price is too good to ignore at $70! In a world where everything seems to be getting more expensive its nice to know we aren't getting gouged on power tools!

[HunterProperty]

Great thank you! The depth of the blade and flipping material upside down makes sense but not something id ever think about! Ive bought a saw today and ordered timber for delivery tomorrow. Very excited.

[HunterProperty]

Ok now I have my saw I am going to attempt installing pine beams to help child/dog proof our front yard. I intend to toe nail the timber in place with a hammer. I am a little unsure how I am going to keep the horizontal sections in place while I join so any advice is appreciated. Is there anything in particular i should be aware of before undertaking this project?

[Dave-1]

Good Evening @HunterProperty 

Id cheat a little Imagine a rectangular block of timber screwed to the deck behind where your blue plank is and then the same deal on the post. Your new "blue plank" then would be screwed through the blue plank into these rectangular blocks. The blocks themselves are screwed with two screws into the deck and the post. The new planks screws are NOT at the same level as the mounting screws The rectangular blocks I would go with nothing less then 50mm to screw into, less chance of timber spiltting the larger the block.

You could use the same sequence for the other two photos. I think squareinstalled screws are nicer to see then angled installed screws. Pilot holes also work wonders for stopping timber splitting.

Dave

[EricL]

Hello @HunterProperty 

It's great that you've received excellent advice from our members. Just to add to the suggestions made, I recommend the following:

• Remember that your cutting blade cuts or occupies a space of 2mm conservatively, placing your blade on the pencil line means that your cut timber will not be exactly as you measured it. Cutting beside the pencil line means that your cut piece should be exact to the measurement you've marked.
   
• Another excellent investment are sawhorses and a builders combination square, it will provide you with so much convenience and you won't have to use chairs to cut your timber.    
   
• Always use timber clamps to prevent your timber from shifting while cutting it.
   
• Practice on off cut timber in order for you to see the actual cut piece and if it conforms to the size that you've marked. This also lets you get familiar with your saw's operation.
    
• If your child is watching you, make sure they are at a safe distance and wearing the same protective gear such as gloves, goggles, mask and hearing protection.
   
• Remember that your saw creates a lot of saw dust make sure you are in area that can get messy and won't mind having a lot saw dust lying about. 
   
• Always check your surroundings before operating your saw.

In regards to keeping your horizontal pieces in place, I suggest using galvanized screws instead of nails, I recommend using your clamps and drilling pilot holes for ease of installation.

Please remember to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles, mask and ear protection.

Eric

[HunterProperty]

Hi Dave,

Thank you! That sounds like a straight forward approach. A couple of questions; Given the deck is not painted, is there a way to hide the temporary screw holes effectively? Its not a big issue but I do try to maximise aesthetics with everything I do. Also I was opting for nails as I figured they would be easier to countersink and hide. The existing joins all appear to be nailed also. Assuming this is correct, is there any particular reason screws would be better?

Cheers.

[HunterProperty]

Hi Eric,

Thank you for the advice - much appreciated. I was opting for nails as I figured they would be easier to countersink and hide. The existing joins all appear to be nailed also. Assuming this is correct, is there any particular reason screws would be better? Im also curious if you mean to use clamps to hold horizontal pieces in place? Im not exactly sure how that would be achieved however if possible I like that idea as it wouldnt leave remnant holes in the timber as per Dave's suggestion for temporary blocks.

Thank you!

[Noyade]

Morningb @HunterProperty 

"Ive bought a saw today and ordered timber for delivery tomorrow. Very excited."

Good to hear. Did you also go with the 210mm drop saw?

If so - I'm cleaning out the shed - if you want a secondhand 210mm Dewalt blade - just PM me.

No charge. 😁

[HunterProperty]

Thanks Noyade that is super generous! I went with the 185mm circular saw only for now so no need for the blade. Thanks again!

[EricL]

Hello @HunterProperty 

The technique would be to clamp another piece of timber to the post you are nailing/screwing into. This is to prevent your horizontal piece from drifting/moving while you are fixing it in place. Both nail and screws are ideal to fix your timber in place, I personally find screws easier to install as it does not generate a moving force when compared to nailing which often moves the timber out of place when being hammered in. But I will leave the choice up to you.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric