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So I wanted to replace one of the switches in the hall with a smart switch. as shown above the switch can currently be activated from either end of the hall. if I just replace one side will it still work? do I need to change anything else or swap both ends?
Hi @shunter6669,
Wow that's quite a down-rating from 2250W resistive to 150W LED.
Is the problem you have is because there is no Neutral conductor at the box where you are trying to install this?
One other thing, you can't put that into a flushbox, you would need to take a cable up into the roof and do your connections there in an enclosure to satisfy AS/NZS 3000. (Wiring Rules)
Cheers,
Mike T.
Hi @shunter6669, the only way I think you're going to be able to do this is feed the Deta unit from the "start" end of the 2 way circuit, as a rule that
is (depending on how it was originally wired by the Electrician) that is where the Neutral will be, because that is where the "switch" wires that feed the light fittings in the circuit obtain their neutral from.
There would not normally be a neutral at the other end of the two way, because that is where the three "traveller /strap wires connect into the end switch mechanism.
I had a search and I cannot find any sort of circuit diagram from the Deta site or on Google, or any trace of an SDoc (Supplier Declaration of Compliance), for this particular device.
Do you have more information, the pictures posted here are almost like that small Tik-Tok display and are hard to make out, with respect to the actual terminals on the device itself?
Did the device come with a wiring diagram?, if so could you please post it.
How big is the device itself, as in length x width x depth?
Also, I hope that you are getting an Electrician to do this and aren't hooking this up yourself, that could end in tears.
Cheers,
Mike T.
Don't you mean DTMF?
Hi @shunter6669,
An Electrician could do this, with a couple of 230V relays to effect the change-over between the two traveller wires, that would at least give you your two way switching at the start end.
However, you are going to need a flush-mount enclosure set into the wall, there is no way you can put all of that junk in behind a standard flush-box and call it electrically compliant/fire safe.
To be on the safe side, I would recommend you have your Electrician run a 6 core + Earth 1.5mm² multicore from the start box to the end box.
That is 3 travellers an Earth and 3 spares, just in case.
You don't have any Intermediate switches in the hallway do you?
That could mess things up somewhat.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions and feedback.
Today i picked up the official Grid Connect Two way units( had to be special ordered) and thought i would share the images and wiring for anyone interested.
Also @MikeTNZ I have added a a picture of the current wiring behind each switch. The template on top is so i can plan out what needs to connect to where. On the double switch 2 will be the single light and 4 will be 2 way light.
Many thanks for updating us on the product you'll be using, @shunter6669.
We'll be looking forward to hearing of a successful installation. Remember, you'll require a licensed electrician to perform these works.
Mitchell
Hi @shunter6669,
Brilliant work, mate!, thanks for getting images of these circuit diagrams and posting them. 👌
As @MitchellMc mentioned, this requires a registered electrician to do this work, but given the diagrams above, an electrician should be able to join the dots, surely!
I can't help but think that the font and the layout of the Deta literature you posted looks a helluva lot like the bits of paper we used to get with PDL fittings here in NZ in the 80's, I could have sworn I'd gone back in time when I saw them. 😂
Best of luck with this project, please let us know how this turns out, I'm really interested to know.
Cheers,
Mike T.
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