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Hi, I have collected over the years pieces of silky oak restoration for my retirement. I would like to start doing them up. I’m a Qualfied Painter but have not delved in further restoring much. I understand the following. Stripping or sanding first. Clean and allow to dry. It’s from this point the steps are of importance to me. These will be items I’m keeping and want the best outcome to make them look beautiful. If anyone can assist I’d appreciate it. Ty. Charles
Hello @Charles1962
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about your silky oak furniture.
Restoring silky oak furniture is a rewarding project, and since you’re already a qualified painter, you’ll have a good foundation in surface preparation and finishing. However, furniture restoration has a few extra steps and details that a specialist would focus on, which a general painter might not automatically consider.
One of the key things is understanding the timber itself—silky oak has an open grain, so a grain filler is often used if you want a smooth, glassy finish. A furniture restorer would also pay extra attention to moisture content in the wood before sealing, as timber that has absorbed too much moisture can lead to adhesion issues or warping over time. Unlike painting walls, furniture restoration often involves more delicate sanding, working through finer grits (starting around 120 and finishing at 400 or even 600) to avoid removing too much character from the wood.
Instead of standard primers and paints, you might want to explore shellac-based sealers like Zinsser’s Bulls Eye Shellac, which enhances the natural beauty of silky oak while providing a strong base for topcoats. If you prefer an oil-based finish, Feast Watson Scandinavian Oil or Tung Oil would be ideal for nourishing the wood and highlighting its grain. For a more durable and refined look, a polyurethane like Cabot’s Cabothane Clear is a great option, but be sure to apply it in thin, even coats to avoid an overly plastic-like finish.
A good spray gun will give you a more professional finish, and for furniture, a HVLP (high-volume, low-pressure) spray gun will provide better control with minimal overspray. The Wagner Control Spray series available at Bunnings is a solid choice for applying varnishes, stains, and even fine coats of paint if needed.
Unlike painting, furniture restoration often involves repairing joints, replacing missing veneer, or even steaming out dents in the wood. A restorer would also take extra care when cleaning—using methylated spirits or a wood-specific cleaner instead of harsh general-purpose cleaners, which can leave residues that affect adhesion.
If you’re planning to stain the wood, testing on an offcut or an inconspicuous area first is essential, as silky oak can take stain unevenly. A pre-stain conditioner, like Cabot’s Wood Conditioner, can help achieve a more even result.
Quality brushes, lint-free cloths, and fine steel wool (0000 grade) will be useful for smoothing between coats and buffing out any minor imperfections. If you're doing any intricate work, such as restoring carved details, a set of dental tools or fine chisels can help clean out old finishes without damaging the wood.
Since these pieces are for yourself, taking your time is key. Unlike painting walls, furniture restoration rewards patience, with multiple thin coats and adequate drying time between steps giving the best results.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
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