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I bought a Ryobi table saw a few weeks ago and did my first coffee table out of pallet wood. This who coffee table was made with just the Ryobi table saw and an Ozito still. It isn’t perfect but it looks rugged and good.
I didn’t realise that pallet woods are not all the same thickness. While I can cut and resize them with my table saw I can’t get the same thickness. I don’t have a planer. How do you make them thinner without a planer or do I need to invest in a thinknesser to do that?
Hi @Shagen,
One of the marvellous things about working with reclaimed timber or pallet wood is that it doesn't need to be perfect and flaws just add to the charm. I think you have done a fantastic job on the project especially as it is your first coffee table.
If the thickness of the boards is not too different I use a Ryobi 800w Variable Speed Belt Sander to get them all flush. I've been looking at a thicknesser myself and they are a significant investment to make but certainly a time-saving machine. You might like to take a look at some electric hand planers as a more budget-friendly option.
We look forward to seeing what your next build will be around the house and garden and would encourage you to let us know if you need assistance or would like to share it with the community.
Mitchell
Hi @Shagen,
I apologise for the delay in my reply. As @Razzer has mentioned a belt sander is easier to control. I also have an electric hand planer and find it to be very aggressive and hard to remove small amounts of timber.
I would recommend a belt sander for removing any serious amount of timber efficiently. Just start at a coarse grit like 80 and works your way up to 240 grit when finishing.
When building with pallets I try to collect a few of the same construction. From those pallets, I reserve the boards of similar thickness and best quality for things like tabletops. When it comes time to sand them all flat it will be less time and work to get an even surface.
Mitchell
Hi @Juli,
I have a very similar Ryobi cordless circular saw, and yours should easily cut through the boards on a pallet. I suspect there is another reason the blade bound up and got stuck. I've put a short video together below for you on cutting through a pallet board. Hopefully, it might assist you with the process as it shows some techniques to follow and things to watch out for.
Here are a few things to keep in mind and try which should resolve this issue:
- Set your blade depth only fractionally deeper than the material you are cutting. Only expose enough blade to allow you to cut through the timber's thickness. If you are cutting through a 19mm board, set the blade depth to 24mm. This will help with the binding issue, and it is also a good safety practice.
- When cutting with a circular saw, you always need to be mindful of the timber pinching the blade. This won't be evident when you begin the cut but progressively worsens as the timber starts to give way. For instance, if you place a long piece of timber between two sawhorses and then try to cut through the middle, the timber will flex downwards and pinch the blade. In this scenario, you would reconfigure the sawhorses and plan your cut outside them, not between. This allows your waste material to fall away as it's unsupported. You might be experiencing this issue whilst cutting the pallet boards. Try not to put excessive weight onto the saw whilst cutting.
- Ensure your batteries are fully charged and try to use a battery that has the highest AH rating, preferably something over 2.0AH.
- Make sure you are cutting straight and don't apply any sideways force on the machine. Even a slight amount of sideways force will stop the blade. Also, try not to twist the machine as this also causes binding.
- Check and then double-check for nails before cutting. The nails holding the boards to the rails can look straight but often skew out of the rail.
Please let me know how you go and if you have any questions.
Mitchell
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