Loose edging on vertical cladding boards

[totocol]

hi there,

first post so not sure if this is the type of questions that are ok to ask here. We bought this house recently from a local builder. House seems well built. Only small issue we found is that the edging that was applied to the vertical boards on the outside on some sections of the house is going loose. It seems to be made of some type of PVC but does not seem to be attached with nails or screws. When it rains, it seems to pool water and in some sections the paint seems to be bubbling up. Initially, we were able to just push the edging back in but with time and change in weather from hot to cold and rain and back to hot, it’s becoming loose permanently. We sent a couple of messages to the builder but he stopped responding to our messages. We rented the house for a few months before moving in so the initial warranty he offered for small fixes passed and he doesn’t seem to want to be involved any more. 

i was hoping for someone that knows what that edging might be made of to share some ideas on how to permanently re-attach It and to know if the design of that edging that seems to collect water might be an issue long term and maybe we need to find a different solution like removing the edging and just painting to match the boards. The lower sections of the house do not have the edging so not sure if it is just there for aesthetic reasons. 

i attached a couple of photos of where the edging is becoming permanently loose. 

thanks! 

 

 

[wooshka]

Hi @totocol , thanks for posting on here , can you post some pics of a bit further away, with some arrows pointing to the area of concern please so we can understand what you are seeing

[totocol]

Thanks a lot for the reply. Not sure if this shot is better but I can upload more if  needed.  I have circled the spots where the edging is becoming loose. 

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @totocol. It's brilliant to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about cladding edging.

It's great to see @wooshka is on the case. Many thanks for your additional image, as it adds context. Also, we're here to help with any questions you have, and this one is perfectly fine. 👍

It appears to be just a C-channel pushed onto the bottom edge. If it is not secured correctly, it will collect water, which could be an issue if it is timber cladding. I'd suggest the best approach would be to remove it and clean out any adhesive residue stuck within it. Next, apply a liberal bead of Sikaflex 11FC into the channel and then stick it back into place. You want enough sealant in the channel that a small amount is pushed out and up the front face of the cladding board. You'll then come along and smooth out the glue on the transition between the cladding and the channel. The idea is that you want water to run down the cladding and over the channel instead of getting inside it. We need to seal the channel against the cladding effectively.

I've put a rendering together below to illustrate this method.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[totocol]

Thanks for much for the quick reply. 
a couple of questions:

- what would you recommend to remove the glue used before? 
- what would you use to smooth the glue after application? Should this be done once the sealant has dried or while still moist? 

thanks a lot! 

[MitchellMc]

@totocol,

Hopefully, the glue used can be easily removed from the channel by hand or cut out with a Stanley knife. Don't worry too much if you can't remove it all. We just need enough room inside the channel for the Sikaflex. Smooth the glue immediately after pushing the channel onto the cladding. If you wear a latex glove, you can smooth it off with your finger or use a paddle pop stick.

Mitchell

[totocol]

Thanks so much. I’ve removed one to confirm the assessment and that the sealant you recommend would by the best so I can go to my local Bunnings this week to get what I need. See photos attached. I cannot see any glue so I’m not sure how they initially attached it, 

 

 

 

[MitchellMc]

It certainly looks like only a minimal amount of adhesive was used there @totocol. Since it's an L-angle instead of a C-channel, you can run your bead of Sikaflex on the interior corner of the angle and then push it into position.

Mitchell

[totocol]

Thanks @MitchellMc 

One final question. It’s actually J Beads but looks like an L one in the photo. Do the J beads have any function beyond aesthetics? I am wondering if I’m better off painting the bottom of the boards since even with a good amount of sealant it seems like there would be sole pockets where water could still pool. Or if I keep the J Beads, how could I feel the little pockets in the little holes between the two boards where the beads will create a small gap which was collecting water in the past? Will the sealant be enough to fill the gaps or do I need to use a gap filler after the sealant has dried out? 

 

thanks! 

[EricL]

Hello @totocol

That is a very fine line you're crossing. Is the "J" bead just for show or does it actually serve a purpose? If it covers the end of the cladding and prevents it from getting waterlogged then it should be put back on. Since it was poorly installed, it instead became a point where the water settled.  

Either way, your goal is to protect the edge of the cladding. Whether you paint it or cover it with the bead. If you install it diligently with a uniform amount of adhesive then you shouldn't get any pockets of water in the bead. But if you miss one then that will be the point where the water will start to pool. 

However, if you paint it, the protection will only last as long as the paint covers it. Whichever way you go, just keep in mind to inspect the cladding every six months to make sure that you're not getting any water damage on the cladding.

Let me tag our experienced members @TedBear and @JoeAzza for their recommendations on the exterior beading. 

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric