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I am attempting to build a custom office/office desk from the 32mm thick custom Bunnings kitchen benchtop range. I'm going to ask to get the Bunnings team to cut the benchtops into what ever size/shapes required to ease fitment and joinery.
The desk will be supported by multiple overrated 90-degree brackets screwed to wall studs and installed with a laser level.
I want to install acoustic panelling on the walls similar to (Prempanel 2700 x 600 x 21mm Black Oak Timber Acoustic Panel)
I want to ideally use the gaps between slats to run cables to keep it cable managed and avoid drilling port holes for cables., but this presents a problem, or at least a choice. I either cut the acoustic panels into two pieces and install to the wall leaving a 32mm gap for the desk meaning the desk will be flush with the wall and will look counter-sunk into the acoustic panels (good) but leaving no room for cables to go down the back.
or,
I have the desk made to the dimensions of the wall 'with' the panels already installed, meaning the desk will be flush to the panels, but the desk will then be 21mm away from the wall, all be it still supported by the brackets. While it means I could run cables anywhere, Ibut 'm not 100% sold on how it may look, I'm also concerned about weight distribution on the brackets. Is this a terrible idea or present a structural support issue because the edge of the desk/
I've calculated the weight of the desk and calculated what my walls can support and I'm well within limits.
Or maybe i simply ask the team to notch some channels?
I hope this makes sense, how would everyone else go about this problem?"
I think im going to have to admit defeat and weld up a frame like this, But to suit the C-shape. (saving here for reference)
Hello @daley85
I'm sorry that you did not get other options presented to you by the kitchen designer. If you are going to use Think benchtop, will you be using a timber benchtop or a solid surface? If your using timber, I suggest ordering it in straight patterns and doing the 45-degree cut yourself on site. I've placed a sample image below to give you an idea of how it can be done. This can also be done in the Kaboodle benchtop in Hevea with a mason's mitre.
If you need further assistance, please let me know.
Eric
Evening @daley85
Now that is a solid desk idea, have to agree with @Noyade on that! 
I wouldnt call it defeat tho, Id calling it failing upwards The first time you put a serious weight on it or see someone standing up on it you will think back and go "damn!" lol Much cleaner design and stuctually stronger.
Dave
Due to finding out that the corners of the walls are not perfect 90 degrees (thanks for the heads up) I intend to reduce tolerance by 10mm and I'm still reasonably confident the wall panel slats will hide any inconsistencies in wall straightness.
Found some table legs I like (thanks bunnings) although considering modifying them to allow for better inner corner support and additional levelling tabs/nuts as I'm still hell-bent on the mitre join and not yet sure of the challenges here yet.
Two ideas currently which is why LHS and RHS are different. the legs are also 30mm short of my original design height, so il be adding a frame of 30mm x 30mm box section (black measurement lines) to support all 3 slabs and get me back to where I need to be.
Progress:
Hi @daley85
Your new plan with legs looks very good. Going with the mitre cut is perfectly ok and I think you can still request for this at the store. The only one they won't do is that 45-degree cut on the left-hand side of your benchtop. That cut will need to be done by you on site.
Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing the benchtop installed.
Eric
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