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Hi Bunnings Workshop members,
I'm interested in DIYing the above desk to be the following dimensions; 700mm (D) x 1500 (W) x 730mm (H) and will be starting from scratch. Could you please advise the best timber to use for the framing and how I can approach starting? I'm wanting to use the Decor8 306x306mm Porcelain Mosaic Tiles and was hoping for a yellow grout if possible.
My only setback is that I don't have many power tools at home, including a drill for connecting the frame together. Do you have any cost-effective methods you can recommend?
Feedback is welcome!
Thanks,
Georgia
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @gvrgvm. It's sensational that you've joined us, and many thanks for your question on the construction of this fabulous table.
Considering your available tools and your constant, which is your tile selection, I believe the easiest construction method would be using a 2400 x 1200 x 25mm MDF Standard Panel. The tiles you have chosen are around 50 x 50mm, so the thickness of your top and sides will need to be at least 50mm thick. If you double up the 25mm thick MDF, you are right on the mark. You can have this cut in-store, and you'll need four 680 x 700mm pieces for the sides and two 1500 x 700mm pieces for the top. You can glue these together with Selleys 420g Liquid Nails Fast Grab Strong Adhesive.
At a minimum, you'll need a cordless drill to join the pieces together with screws. Since it will be difficult to establish rigidity in the table without the use of brackets, I'd advise using some long Zenith 14G x 125mm Galvanised Type 17 Batten Bugle Head Timber Screws through the top and into your side panels. Glueing these joins will also be necessary.
It appears the creator of this table used a standard tile adhesive to attach the tiles. The other alternative would be to continue using the Liquid Nails construction adhesive.
Since it is not a common colour for the yellow grout, you'll need to custom make it. Combining Davco 1.5kg White Sanitized Superfine Grout and yellow oxide would be one way to do so. If you see a helpful team member at our Special orders desk, they'll be able to order in this oxide from one of our supplier's Australian Builders.
I've also put together a rendering to illustrate the method of construction I've described.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @AmyLouise. It's brilliant to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about creating this tiled table project.
Let me mention @gvrgvm to see if they ever got around to finishing their project and if so, hopefully, they can answer your question.
I see no reason why you couldn't grout the main areas and then grout the underside of the table. To get new grout to bond to old grout, it's best to moisten it first.
Felt dots on the underside of the legs would be a great idea to avoid any damage to your floors.
Do you have any pictures you could share of your progress so far? I'm sure our members would be keen to see it.
Mitchell
100% correct, @Noyade!
The OP suggested they had limited tools, so I went with the most basic design I could think of that should work. I would presume that as the legs will definitely not be flex-free, the corner grout line will crack. However, that could likely be patched if it did happen. For those that wanted more rigidity, I'd recommend chiselling out some grooves for Carinya 150 x 150 x 20 x 4mm Zinc Plated Angle Brackets to be recessed into so that they are flush with the timber surface. Once they've been used to screw the top to the sides, they can be tiled over.
I like the idea of a backboard, though, as it would improve the situation.
Mitchell
