How to install cavity sliders?

[stottj81]

Hi Guys,

I am looking at installing cavity sliders into my bedrooms, and i need to re stud sections of the wall.

Need some advice on how to do this as my current studs are 100mm. i have ordered 100mm Hume cavity slider carcasses. 

I am having trouble finding 100mm timbers for framing.

would it be better to get like 120mm and rip it down or can you special order 100mm?

Thanks

[KatieC]

Hi @stottj81,

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community! It is awesome you have joined and thank you for your cavity slider question. Our resident D.I.Y. expert @EricL will be back online this afternoon and will assist as soon as possible. I'll tag members @diy_hausdesigns and @JDE to check if they have any suggestions. In the meantime, I encourage you to check out @moussaqhiands' how-to guide on Installing a Hume cavity sliding flush door.  

We hope you find Workshop filled with inspiration and advice, if you have further questions along your D.I.Y. journey please do not hesitate to post. 

Katie

[EricL]

Hello @stottj81 

Thanks for sharing your question about cavity sliders. You'll notice on the Bunnings website that the cavity sliders come in either 70mm or 90mm frames. The plasterboard thickness is around 10mm. They are usually placed on both sides of the frame which will give you the actual thickness of your wall. However, if it is 100mm you'll need to use a timber packer in order to meet your walls current thickness.

You mentioned that you have 100mm studs is that with the plasterboard attached? In order to give our members a better idea of your wall thickness, would it be possible for you to post a photo of your wall? Once we see the studs, we should be able to make recommendations on how to proceed.

I also suggest having a look at these step-by-step guides:

• How to build a stud wall
   
• How to plasterboard a stud wall
   

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[stottj81]

Hi @EricL,

Thanks for replying, my studs are 100mm without the plasterboard, 120mm with plasterboard. I haven't removed the plaster yet, I measured the top plate from the roof.

I already special ordered 100mm cavity slider carcasses. Can you advise how to proceed

Thanks

[EricL]

Hello @stottj81 

Before proceeding further can you please tell us how old the house is? Would you happen to know when it was built? Older houses often have asbestos wall lining and if it does, I don't recommend removing or modifying the walls.

The only other reason I can think of for such a thick wall is that it is load bearing. In that case, I'm going to have to recommend engaging the services of a registered builder. Only they will be able to modify the wall safely.

In the meantime, I suggest having a look at this discussion - Installing a Hume cavity sliding flush door. by @moussaqhiands. This will give you a very good idea of how cavity frames are installed.

Let me call on our experienced members @Adam_W, @homeinmelbourne, @TedBear, @JoeAzza and @Dave-1 for their recommendations.

Eric

[moussaqhiands]

That was very prudent of you Eric, good advise. It's always better to be safe that sorry!. In my video 'How to install a cavity sliding door' I mentioned that the wall we installed the sliding door was not load bearing which is really important. These day houses are generally built out off 70mm or 90mm timber studs depending on the design and engineering. Just for your information, asbestos stopped being manufactured in Australia in 1987 but wasn't band until late 2003. 

A carpenter/builder should be able to identify these issues quite easily for you!

Moussa

[moussaqhiands]

My apologies stottj81, I have been busy and jumped the gun not seeing your original question. I would assume it's plasterboard walls which you should be able to identify looking down at the width of the top plate as you mentioned. Unlike England and the USA, generally speaking here in Australia our plasterboard walls were only made of gypsum. But saying that, I must say please have that confirmed by an expert.

In regards to the timber, if the wall is Not load bearing then putting an internal sliding cavity door should not be a problem and yes, I would just rip a wider piece of timber down if you can't find the size you need. Furthermore, I would suggest as well that you put a beam above the opening appropriate to the width to reduce the chance of the timber deflecting. Sagging beams can be a problem for sliding doors.

[Dave-1]

Good morning @stottj81 

I have not installed a cavity door yet Might one day. 

My worries are mostly centered on is the wall load bearing? and potentially support of the wall as I take out the struts. 

Your wall sounds interesting as its a different size. Is it an older house? 

Ripping down timber to make it fit sounds like a good optionto me. I have done that wehn  I cant buy the exact type I want.

Hopping to see some photos as you install the doors.

Dave