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In 2011, I built this lovely Santa throne from plans bought from the USA. The majority of the timber came from Bunnings Parafield. Since then it has stood me in good stead over successive Christmas events (this is my 21st year as a Santa and yes, I have been Santa for many of Bunnings SA Stores).
Last year I found that white ants had worked their way up a crack in my shed floor and attacked the nearest leg they could find. I killed them off with poison spray but now I need to do a makeover to clean up the mess and get it ready for use over the next few weeks.
The first step - I think - is to take a 45-degree cut to remove as much as I can of the damage at the same time retaining maximum strength because I have some pretty hefty folks sitting on it at times.
It has been suggested that I then putty it to fill any remaining holes and possibly put a curve on the edge to make it look better.
Then it is time for the Paint shop to get Brunswick Green enamel to put 2 coats on the whole surface area. I will have to cut back the surface with my sander, advice on grit please.
Your suggestions are welcomed.
Solved! See most helpful response
Another way to hide the damaged timber and repairs might be to put disks like this chair at the front. The strain would be too much to think of having functional wheels, I have a trolley for moving the chair.
I really do like the embellishments on this chair but Bunnings don't do them anymore, do they?
Oh, thank you for the info, I didn't realise that was how it worked. Yep, I can see why it was recommended.
I watched the video and the second one suggested that I don't use it for "structural or load-bearing timbers."
That's why I was thinking of Eric's suggestion to replace the damaged area with a block of fresh timber. About 100 x 100 x 42 would cover the damage if I can find some scrap to that dimension. The leg is 185 x 42.
Hi @ilox,
I haven't seen those fancy embellishments for many years, and I am not aware of any of our suppliers producing them.
I'd recommend cutting off the damaged leg timber and jointing on a new section.
Mitchell
Update. I took a 35mm strip off the bottom of the leg just to see if I could get away with a strip of pine, 185 x 35 x 42.
Well the damage seems to go quite a bit further/higher than I had been hoping it did.
Setting the fence for a 35mm cut
Using the 150mm Ozito circular saw. These little portable units are great for jobs when you just can't get the project on the saw bench or near the Ozito drop saw.
So this is the slice and the exposed part of the leg. It looks to be much more damage there. Also worried if the wood hardening spray is going to hold up against all the detritus that the ants have left in their chambers.
Looking at the side shows just how far up is the damaged wood ~ 70mm (from the original base - about 35mm now.) The slice doesn't seem to be enough to cover all of that but I don't have a piece of scrap big enough to take more than the 35mm slice.
Hi @ilox,
It doesn't look great after that first cut. The wood hardener will help, but there are a lot of cavities in the timber that the wood hardener won't fill.
I'd say you're going to have to cut a larger section out of the timber and replace it. At least to where the timber has splintered off.
Let me know what you think.
Jacob
Hello @ilox
To my eyes that entire front portion needs to be removed/replaced.
I can't help but think of a Current Affair title...
"Santa's chair collapses - child injured."
Liability and litigation. Welcome to the 21st century. 😔
Good Evening @ilox
Mmm Im starting to seriously think that it may be time to replace the two front legs 😕 As much as I am impressed with the wood hardener we just dont know how far the rot goes up the leg and as @Noyade has said with those headlines lol That would not be a good story. I dont think it would happen but no way would I want to chance it.
Quick fix method maybe =
Could you cut a new front piece and fix it to the existing legs to get you through Christmas? Then after The Season you could then install it properly?
Dave
Hi @ilox
My first thought is that I share the concern as @Noyade being that the leg needs to be as structural sound due to the chair be tested in a public environment.
I would be inclined to cut a little further up the leg until you come across a non-rotted area. If this is too high up, then attaching a filler piece won't be strong enough and a new leg would be required. If you can get away with the small section, then as an optional cutout shape as per below. Then either screwing a metal plate to the inside or gluing and screwing a timber block.
Nailbag
From the side photo (on my last posting), after cutting off 35mm, it looks like there is about another 35 mm of damage. I found a piece of timber that is the right dimensions though it has a channel in it. So I plan on cutting a total of 70mm off and that should get me to the top of their hole or very nearly to it. The channel will be to the back of that leg so not that noticeable.
See how the morning goes.
That has always been my number one concern throughout this project. That is why I build to battleship standard and believe me, this thing is solid as a rock. By the end of the day, the termite damage will be removed or inconsequential. I wouldn't have it any other way. I have to be safe sitting on this too, I have a big stake in it being safe to all users.
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