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A fair bit of damages was done to the drywalls while removing some old wallpaper, despite using steamer and Zinsser wallpaper stripper. Which sealer should I use for the ripped paper damages prior to skim coating?
Also what’s the best way to remove old superglue residue from drywall?
Thanks!
Hi @mmchau,
If you are skim-coating, then there is no need to seal the paper edges. You'd typically prime and seal the edges if you only planned on painting over the damaged area and not skim-coating. The skim coat itself will bind to the paper edges and encapsulate them. For the rest of the damage where the paint has been removed and not the paper, I'd recommend sanding with some 240-grit sandpaper to smooth out the area.
Once you've applied your skim coat of plaster and then sanded back flush with the wall, you can use any standard sealer/primer/undercoat like Dulux 1 Step to prep the area for paint.
You would likely need to use a bladed scraper to remove old, hardened superglue.
Remember your PPE, including a face mask, safety goggles and gloves.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Thanks @MitchellMc
I thought I need to plaster fill the ripped paper damage and to smooth the area prior to painting - I have attached more pictures. Do I just plaster fill the affected area or the whole wall given the extensive damages on the drywall? The house was built in 1970 and presumably the walls were last painted around 1970s - would this still be okay to sand the old paint? Thanks.
Afternoon @mmchau
Thats some nice artwork you have ended up with... And really its not bad. I would smooth the holes over with something along these lines selleys 180g spakfilla rapid gap filler then sand smooth. You will egta lot of dust and know you are finished but running your hand over and not feeling an edge or bump.
As to a sealer to put on it, I generally paint over it twice with the undercoat of the room 
I had never thought of putting a sealer down.
Dave
Hi @mmchau
If the paint is still intact and not peeling or cracking off, then it should be ok to sand the surface. I suggest working in sections to make sure that you've filled all the damage on the plasterboard surface. Repeat the process when sanding the surface, I recommend using UNi-PRO Large Hand Sander to get a uniform finish.
As for the sealer, I suggest going with @MitchellMc's recommendation which is the Dulux 1Step Prep Primer, Sealer & Undercoat.
Please make sure to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles, and a painter's mask when working on your project.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let me know.
Eric
Thanks Dave-1 and EricL!
@MitchellMc suggested using Zinsser Gardz to bind the edges of the drywall paper in another similar post but Zinsser Gardz is not available in Australia. Is there any alternative product to Gardz in Australia? Also I was unable to get rid of all the old superglue on the drywall with scraper and sandpaper, would you suggest apply a sealer to cover the glue residue prior to applying joint compound/spakfilla? There are a few walls along the corridor from bedrooms to kitchen with dry wall damages - would joint compound or spakfilla better?
Apology for all these questions - I just want to make sure I understand how to fix it prior to starting the repair. Thanks!
Afternoon @mmchau
No appoligies needed about questions 
We all have them and the only way to find stuff out sometimes is to ask.
The question about the glue residue I would suggest to use sugarsoap and scrub hard, it will dampen the wall but remove the old glue. (I rem doing that for my old rooms as they all had 70's style different wallpare) Sanding more so with a hand block wrapped in sandpaper may be a good idea as the friction isnt supper fast and the glue wont heat up and go sticky again.
I still dont know about a sealer, I never used one so I would say I am the wrong person in that department to recommend:)
Dave
Hello @mmchau
It's perfectly alright to ask these questions. An alternative to the Zinsser Gardz is Dulux 1L PRECISION White Sealer Binder. It is an oil-based prep coat that seals porous surfaces and binds unpainted powdery surfaces such as masonry, bare plaster, cement sheet and brick.
In regards to the leftover glue on the drywall, I suggest using a heavy-duty scraper like QEP 4" Floor And Wall Razor Scraper. It's important that it be removed so that it will not be visible when you start painting your wall.
Let me call on our experienced members @TedBear1 and @JoeAzza for their recommendation.
If you need further assistance, please let men know.
Eric
