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My landlord said I can rip the 10-12 year old carpets up in the bedrooms an they’re eager for me to begin painting but I first want to get the skirting sorted(as well as sealing up the 2 door frames (both sides of the laundry door and the back door) and around the kitchen window before winter arrives to help save on energy costs but to also save on time & money.
The landlord told me to give them a list of everything needed and they will get everything delivered to me so that I can do the work.
im just unsure what to use under the skirting boards as there is visible gaping occurring(can be seen in other areas where the floating floorboards have been removed but skirting still remains).
Also any tips for these door frames(the gaps are far from even).
Thank you
Hello @Ashie_90
Thanks for sharing those pictures of your skirting board and doorway gaps. I think this will require you to use multiple types of materials to cover the gaps. I suggest using Porta 12 x 12mm 2.4m Moulding Pine DAR Clear for the skirting board gaps. You can either glue or nail the timber moulding in place. However, the drawback is that parts of the wall may have bigger gaps and the timber moulding may not be tall enough. You also can use Gyprock CSR 2.25kg Less Mess Multi-Purpose Joint Compound in conjunction with a 100mm Sharp Edge Paint Scraper. It will be a bit labour intensive, but you'll be able to cover all the skirting gaps no matter how big it is.
But before we get further into my recommendations, are you re-carpeting or will the floor be left as is? Will you be putting on new melamine clip-on flooring? I think it's important to take these into consideration as the option of re-skirting the entire house will need to be included in the revamp. If you're re-skirting the house, I suggest using Moroday 75 x 10mm x 1.8m Adhesive Foam Roll and sandwiching it between the wall gap and the new skirting board.
As for the doorway gaps, I recommend using timber moulding to take up the large gaps in combination with expanding foam. If you come to an irregular shape that needs to be filled use expanding foam as it can be cut and sanded once it has cured.
Let me call on our experienced members @Brad, @Nham, @TedBear and @ProjectPete for their recommendations.
Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing all the skirting and door gaps repaired.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hi Eric,
Thank you so much for responding to my multiple projects I’m about to tackle(and hopefully get done before winter hits lol).
I have part of the hallway & entryway to ‘Skirt’ though the gap between the skirting already there and the flooring is throughout the house(minus one bedroom that still has floating floors). I’m sure the other 3 bedrooms will be the same once I rip the carpet up.
owner isn’t sure what flooring they want to put down though they’re happy to go ahead with the floorboards here if I can get them back to being staple and paint stain free(minus where repairs need to be completed).
Labor intensive is perfectly fine-trying to save the owner costs in that area by living and renovating it myself in hopes to have it suitable for rental investment in the future.
Many Thanks
Ash
Hi @Ashie_90
The floor looks to be in good condition. I suggest making a room by room assessment as to what you'll need to cover the gaps. In this manner you'll be able to quantify the number of materials you'll need. I also recommend allowing an extra 5% extra for the materials you will purchase for unexpected repairs that you might encounter.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hi Eric,
Thankyou for replying and for your advice, I will certainly do a ‘room by room assessment’.
Aside from this section here it’s in good Nick(owner had walls taken out then put a wall In to add a 4th bedroom/study). They used ‘self leveling concrete as pictured).
ive been told I can also remove the Lino in the kitchen/dining area(I was told it was layed rather than prepping the rest of the floor so that the old floating flooring could be layed).
do you have any tips on how to remove the Lino please? The owner said rather than removing the staples from the original flooring and fixing any nails they laid the Lino so I’m sure I’m in for a bit of a challenge(though nothing compared to the amount of staples I’ve stepped on((now removed)) that made stepping on ‘legos’ over the years feel like “a walk in the park” lol.
Many Thanks
Ash
Hi @Ashie_90
Ouch! I can only imagine stepping on so many staples. I'm afraid you'll have to use traditional methods of removal, pliers and sharp edge demolition bars. I've yet to run into an effective method where you can remove a lot of it in one go.
Any photo updates you can provide as you make progress would be highly appreciated.
Eric
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