How to build a floating desk?

[maccifo]

Good morning,

I want to use one of the walls on the upstairs landing to install a floating desk as it is an area of the house that we don't use that much.

All dimensions are in the sketch below. Materials I am planning to use:

• Ikea drawers 360mm wide in white. The idea is to have some kind of divisor with storage as well as a support in the middle.
• Smoked Oak Kaboodle benchtop. I thought this would be easier than installing actual timber and prepare it. The total weight of the whole benchtop is 40kg and i will be cutting a little bit to make it 2317mm (giving a couple of mm either side).
• Side Wall brackets. I initially thought on installing a builder angle (recessed into the gyprock) attached to the two studs but i couldn't find it in Bunnings long enough (600mm). Therefore, I am now thinking on installing 2 angle brackets as per the sketch (125mm brackets or 250mm, I am not sure) recessed into the gyprock.
• Back Wall brackets. I am thinking on installing 2 angle brackets as per the sketch (300mm brackets) recessed into the gyprock.
• Silicone around the benchtop to seal the gap.
• 2 x Cable management duct access at the back on the benchtop.
• Cable management tray below the desk (I haven't found anything yet online). 

Any suggestions? I am a bit lost on the number of brackets and the dimensions that I need. Kaboodle recommends supports every 800mm but that said, that is also recommended for kitchens, not a desk that would not have that much weight. 

Sergio

[Stuardo]

Hi @maccifo 

Everything you describe above sounds great and will work well and a good use of the space. The only change I would make is not use brackets, instead attach strips of timber to the 3 walls (screwed into the studs) for the benchtop to sit on. The drawers in the middle will support most of the weight.

I look forward to seeing it finished.

Cheers,

Stuart.

[EricL]

Hello @maccifo

Thanks for sharing your plans for your floating desk. The suggestion made by @Stuardo is an excellent alternative to putting in so many brackets. Using strips of timber will give you a much wider range of support as the back and side edges of the benchtop will be totally supported. When compared to using brackets where the support is only concentrated on the area where the brackets are installed. 

To provide support for the centre of the benchtop, I suggest putting in some timber spacers at the top of the drawer cabinet. It will keep the drawer in place and prevent the centre from sagging should you put your weight on it when leaning against the benchtop.  

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing your floating desk installed.

Eric

[maccifo]

Thanks Stuardo, any recommendations for the timber? Perhaps 42mmx42mm dressed pine?

I will need to paint it with the wall as it will be visible from the front.

[maccifo]

Thanks Eric, sorry but I can't understand the spacers recommendation. Could you please send an sketch?

[EricL]

Hi @maccifo

My apologies about the timber spacers. I thought that the drawer set would be lower than the benchtop height. But you've placed the benchtop height at 700mm, exactly the same height as the drawer set. So there is no need to add timber spacers. The benchtop should sit neatly on top of the drawer set.

Eric

[Stuardo]

Hey Sergio, 42 x 42 will work fine. You can paint it to blend into the wall if you want, however being under the benchtop it won't be seen except at the very front and you could cut it a few centermeters short of the front to minimise that. Up to you.

Cheers,

Stuart

[Jason]

Looking forward to seeing your floating desk come together @maccifo. It's fantastic that you received such wonderful help from the experienced @Stuardo.

Please give us a shout if you need anything further, and do please share photos of your build. 

Jason

[maccifo]

Thanks all for your help,

I ended up changing a few things:

• Benchtop. I found another benchtop on Bunnings that was cheaper and also with less thickness/weight. 
• Base/support. I installed a square base (shorter than the width as i didn't have longer timber) resting on the drawers and also screwed to the wall studs at the back. I thought it would be enough but it has created a few issues:
  • It is a bit wobbly on the sides. On one side I can install a timber on the wall picking up two studs. However, on the right, I have a shower in the other side of the wall and I can only find one stud, any recommendations?
  • The base is clearly visible from the front. I have been thinking on installing a white 42mm dressed pine board to hide the base. Any other idea?
• In addition to that, my wall is not perfect (neither my cut...). Any suggestions to cover the gap between the wall and the top?

Thanks,

Sergio

[MitchellMc]

Looking good, Sergio (@maccifo)! 

It sounds like you'll need to install those brackets at the ends as recommended above. If the panel is only a little bit wobbly, you should be fine installing your timber brace into one stud and the other end into the plaster. Make sure you use two screws into the timber stud so the brace can't twist. Super Wallmates can hold up to 20kg, and I can't imagine the end will be bearing much more than that.

For the base, you can cover it with white self-adhesive film or paint. The gaps could be concealed by having a small quad moulding run around the perimeter of the top.

Please let me know if you have more questions.

Mitchell