How do i install aluminium flyscreen without it splitting when i roll the spline in?

[brendan23]

Hi, when I roll my “what was pretty expensive” aluminium flyscreen into the channel, as I push in the spline the flyscreen splits. I’ve tried gentle, hard etc. any ideas? Thank you so much 

[MitchellMc · Accepted solution]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @brendan23. It's great to have you join us and many thanks for your question.

I'm sorry to hear you are having issues installing your new flyscreen.

I believe this issue has to do with the thickness of the spline that is being used or the screen being stretched too tightly. Splines come in a variety of thickness including 4.5mm, 5.0mm, 5.7mm and 6.0mm. If you are installing new spline then you will need to measure the gap on the frame. For fibreglass or aluminium screen you would normally select a spline that is the same width as the gap on the frame. If you already have a spline that is the same width as the gap and the aluminium screen is ripping, I would suggest going one size smaller with the spline.

At what point does it start to tear? At any time you push the spline in or only when the screen is under tension and you are almost complete?

You might find this step-by-step tutorial helpful: How to replace a flyscreen by @Tara86

Let me mention a few helpful members @Tara86, @Brad, @JDE, @Stuardo, @Walzz which might be able to provide some advice.

Mitchell

[brendan23]

Mitchell that’s great advice thank you 

it’s the final hard roll if you like on the spline creating the final tension

from what you said a smaller spline may be the answer

ill try that 

thank you so much

[MitchellMc]

Hi @brendan23,

Please let us know how you go. If you continue to have problems I would be more than happy to contact the manufacturer after the weekend to discuss the issue.

Mitchell

[brendan23]

mitchell

gap is about 7mm

spline appears to be 5mm

bunnings online appears to only go down to 4.5mm

will that be enough LESS than the 5mm

thanks ongoing 

[MitchellMc]

Hi @brendan23,

If you currently have 5mm spline then I would go with the 4.5mm spline. Also, try not to have the wire tight before putting the spline in. It is the act of pushing the spline down that creates tension on the screen.

Let us know how you go.

Mitchell

[MitchellMc]

@brendan23,

As a follow-up, I have made contact with the Cyclone technical assistance team to discuss the issue. They would like to contact you to ensure the product is not from a faulty batch.

I'll contact you via private message to get further details from you.

Mitchell

[robertskene]

Hi,
I too have had my expensive Cyclone aluminum insect wire split when rolling it into the frame, before the installation of the spline. The torn 1220mm x2.05 m roll is now no longer big enough to try again.
I followed the Cyclone video and used the convex wheel of the Cyclone roller tool.
The groove in the frame is 3mm wide.
Any idea how I get the wire into the grove without tearing?
Thanks,
Robert

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @robertskene. It's great to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about installing flyscreen.

A 3mm groove sounds particularly small to me. Is that correct? You'd need to fit the minimum 4.5mm spline and a double layer of flyscreen in that gap. That would appear not to be possible. 

Are you replacing fibreglass screen? If so, aluminium is thicker, and you'd likely need to use a smaller spline than what was previously used on the fibreglass. If the spline is too thick, the screen will tear.

The only other advice is that the screen shouldn't be pulled taught before pushing the spline in. It's the act of pushing the spline in that tensions the screen. Once again, if it is pulled tight prior, the screen will split. 

I look forward to hearing if those measurements are correct and if you are using a spline sized for fibreglass.

Mitchell

[robertskene]

Michell
Thanks for the reply.
The sliding door is an old Stegbar and yes the gap is 3mm and the old spline was 3.5mm (still in tact).
I have been required to replace the fiberglass mesh with aluminum to provide a stronger mesh as the sliding door is an entry to a pool.
The aluminum tore whilst forming it into the frame and before I got to the spline insertion.
Is there some trick to pushing the aluminum into the frame with the convex wheel on the Cyclone double ended tool. Use soap to lubricate the frame so the aluminum slides in and does not tear?

Looks so easy in the videos ... but the mesh tore even though I was making multiple gentle passes.
Thanks,
Robert