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Hi everyone
Recently we have changed our Floor colour so we need to change our main 2 door colour . We decided some thing neutral colour.
But our present door is like Varnish colour .
Could I please have some advice how to do that easily ?
Thank you in advance
Hi @mmd22
To answer your question quickly use Acrylic under coat and also acrylic top coats x 2 or 3 min. Any good paint brand is fine if your door is exposed to sun and or weather blowing in try use a brush to paint under the door edge to seal that area also use outdoor arcylic paints UV safe
Now the history of paint I when over board with some detail so just read the bits you didnt know. 
Modern acrylic paints are the better way to go as they have low odour and they dry faster and wear quite well and come in matt semi and full gloss some acrylic paints say they dont need an under coat.
But I might guide you to using an arcylic water based sealer/undercoat for several reasons (any major brand.)
1 the door is a dark color and may alter your color selection shading slightly darker.
2 the sealer will help hide minor defects hidden to the eye
3 the door varnish even sanded may resist new paint from sticking.
for one door you would use less than 500Ml but I think they only come in 1 litre .well good for next project start left over under coat. You should be able to buy top coat in 500ml and save some money as paint very expensive these days,
As its your front door you will need to try do it in sensible stages so you can close your door at nights.
First stage sand the door while on it hinges I hear you as to is heavy weight. Only start painting in the morning 10 am as a guide as this will give acrylic time to touch dry approximatly 1 hours. Some paints will allow you to recoat in 2 hours so you can do 2 coats one day. Close door when touch dry at night between coats at need. A quick touch with your hand will tell you paint is dry. Summer months may speed up drying time. Sand door very lightly and sparingly with wet and dry sand paper 1200 grit use the sand paper wet. Feel the door with you hand until the micro (sand/dirt?) comes off.
I would use a small artist paint brush 10 mm wide to paint neatly around the hinges a small paint brush around the edges near the floor etc and a small foam roller for the larger door surface.
Soak your brushes and roller in a old container over night filled with water to cover bristles only most of the paint will fall out of brush tip water /paint into bin so small paint balls not in ocean. Dry brush and roller with paper towel so most of the water in the brush roller is out other wise paint will run out of brush.
Have ready a drop sheet under the door and area but if any small paint drops flick some where have a wet cloth on immediate stand by to mop up acrylic paint splashes ASAP So much easier than scraping them later.
Hi @mmd22,
It's wonderful to see that @Jewelleryrescue has been assisting. You might also like to take a look at Dulux 1L PRECISION Maximum Strength Adhesion Primer White, as it's perfect for not having to fully sand back difficult-to-paint surfaces. I'd recommend two coats of the primer before two coats of your topcoat if you're going for a lighter colour finish. Varnishing can tend to bleed through single layers of primer with lighter topcoats.
As @Jewelleryrescue mentioned, water-based enamel paints are the way to go. They offer all the same protection as oil-based paint but without the yellowing, fumes and difficult cleanup. Typically I like to go with Dulux Aquanamel.
Here's a helpful step-by-step guide on How to paint a front door.
Please let us know if you have further questions.
Mitchell
Hi @mmd22,
These are really great questions, @MitchellMc will be back online on Friday to further assist. In the meantime, let me tag @homeinmelbourne, @Renowayoflife, and @Nham to see if they are able to lend some advice and check out this great article do you need to sand before painting.
Katie
Hi @mmd22
I actually I think microfiber roller sounds like a great for a fine smooth high gloss finish and washable at the end of the project. I suggested foam roller as it is short and easy to use on a door without loading up paint on a full roller size plus the shorter roller a little easier to handle close to floor edge and around door edges. Usually the foam or miro fiber roller comes with a cute little paint loading tray of its own as to make paint loading easier and less wasteful.
Roller vs brush on a door ultimatly all about the finished texture your door will look like and the ease of painting the edges and around door knob and fine details a roller cant do. I dont mind the brush strokes in my paint work made by a brush it makes me happy you pick you favorite finish probably matching your other paint work. Full size rollers cover more area faster for a wall and a roof this is a must. ( also full house invest in an electric spray painter) The rollers will give you typically a finer finish if this is what you desire, But you can go 10mm wool nap (typically used for rough surfaces)on a roller and that will give you a textured finish like little clouds kissing your door not really visually apparent but its there. You can even use a sea sponge for other effects especially two tone features.
Any thing can be used to paint with is all about the final finish and the ease and efficancy of applying paint in a Small tight or bigger area.
Dentists use toothbrushes ( Xmas Furphy)
Sanding @KatieC has kindly added a few references to sanding advice one of them is do you need to sand before painting.
Oh I should mention hand sand lightly between coats as machines to agressive.
@mmd22 You asked about sanding and is it necessary vs just undercoat which is a great question by the way.
It is always good to sand a surface you are about to paint as it provides micro scratches for new paint to bond to while removing older paint micro layer and loose bits like fine dust. You have a sander a quick 10 min sand per door will help keep your new paint from being rubbed off by people brushing by, Point A The sander takes of the high points the under coat (and paint) fills the micro valleys As mentioned sand between all coats once they are touch dry basically repeating point A. Dont forget to wipe the door down with a damp cloth to take your sanding dust off and your surrounding walls and skirting boards
Another way too look at it is if you miss a 10 min step , This may take years of life off your project life and you maybe concerned a step was missed when ever you look at a project We here all know the satisfaction of a job well done we only want the same for you.
I bought a pair of draws in a grey finish and put a custom made set of under desk draws between them with the outer panel made with melamine laminate on top. The melamine coating is very slick even after a sanding and undercoating and painting the following photos shows the paint was pretty easy to cause it to be worn off. In hind sight I should have used plain timber but the draw front is just a face plate and can be easialy replaced but extra time and materials and having to re match paint is a drag. Moral of my story is a simple 5 minute choice timber vs melamine could have made my project last longer. Your sanding could stop paint chipping for extra years
