Tiling of outdoor deck

[MazPert]

Hi everyone, looking at building a deck but after the devastating fires have reconsidered (as we are in a bushfire zone) and would like to use tiles that look like timber instead. We thought of building the base out of metal (bearers and joists etc) and then laying down some type of board to tile on top.  Can anyone suggest what type of board would be suitable for outdoors to tile on and for adhesion.  Any suggestions welcome as we have not done anything like this before.

[ProjectPete]

@MazPert Timber-look tiles are a good option and with their textured finish are less slippery when wet than standard tiles.

Unsure which will be more cost effective between a concrete slab or your suggested approach of steel frame structural boards.

However, I'd suggest James Hardie Secura flooring boards (for exterior use). They're easy to install with a simple tongue and groove join and will give you the structural integrity you so desire.

[MazPert]

Thanks ProjectPete for your reply.  We had originally considered concrete but due to tree roots exposure under the slab thought long term this may be an issue for movement.  The boards you're suggesting are suitable for adhesive for tiling?  Also you mentioned tongue and groove join does this effect anything when laying the tiles?

Any expertise in the layout of the frame for the deck?

Your help is much appreciated.

[ProjectPete]

No worries 😀

Good thinking re concrete vs tree roots - always a risk there so best to avoid.

The boards are suitable (designed for) tiling and the tongue and groove is just to join the boards for easy/perfect alignment and requires less screws/fixing to frame.

The frame should be set out like decking re bearers/joists. 450mm centres for your joists on the 19mm board and 600mm centres for the 22mm board.

Besides the obvious tools you're going to need, remember to have a circular saw with a timber/steel blade for frame and a Fibre cement blade for Secura boards. I haven't seen a 165mm FC blade at Bunnings but have elsewhere.

You'll also need some specific FC screws for fixing.

Importantly, remember to allow for a gradient/fall away from your house. Your joists should run in the direction of the fall.

[MazPert]

Thanks again ProjectPete.  I'll pass the info onto the hubby and hopefully we can get started on the project soon.

As we commence if we have any additional questions I'll post and hopefully get replies.

Thanks again.

[ProjectPete]

Always happy to help - feel free to DM me on Insta @homeprojectco too as I always have that on me, but not always on workshop community

[Jason]

Hi @MazPert,

Welcome to the Workshop community. Great to see that you have already had some feedback from the wonderful @ProjectPete. I trust that our community will provide plenty of helpful advice and inspiration for all your projects around the house and garden.

I would encourage you to take a look at the timber-free deck built by @Adam_W as part of his larger renovation project. I know fire was an important consideration for Adam. He might also like to have some input here.  

Welcome again and please let me know if you ever need a hand getting the most from the site. 

Jason

[Adam_W]

Hi @MazPert , as @ProjectPete said if you're tiling you'll need that stable sheeting beneath & as you won't have drainage through the deck you'll need fall away from the house etc.
There are other deck options that have BAL FZ ratings such as HardieDeck that I've used extensively (see pic below) and also some EkoDeck varieties have a BAL 29 rating as do some properly seasoned native hardwoods such as Blackbutt and Spotted Gum.

[MazPert]

Further to my previous post thank you we have decided to go with the James Hardie Secura flooring boards to overcome the challenge of the tree roots.

I have a second area I want to tile with the same timber look tiles and turn into an outdoor room with covered pergola.  In total this area is approx. 45m2.  Atm there is section of tiled verandah on concrete slab at the back door and an adjoining section of pavers laid on compacted sand and cement.  I have a very small step down from my back door of 5cm and need to create a fall from the back door to the retaining wall which is approx. 4.6 m.  I will need to remove approx 10cm of paving material without allowing for the support structure of concrete or frame to create the fall. 

Existing concrete pavers have been on a concrete sand and bedding for 30 years without any movement.

I have drawn up a rough plan of dimensions.

I am considering one of the following options any advice and suggestions would be appreciated.

• Concrete slab and screed

• James Hardie Secura flooring boards on joists and screed

• Screed only not sure if this would be strong enough

Look forward to everyone's advice and replies.Existing tiled verandah on slab

Back door riserExisting paved area from other sideExisting paved areaFrom verandah to retaining wallHeight from back door to tiled areaOverall tiling areaPlanRetaining wall fall from house

[Jason]

Hi @MazPert,

Thanks for the comprehensive detail about your second area.

Let me tag @Adam_W, @ProjectPete, @gippslandhome and @Stuardo and @hadi to see if they might again be able to share their thoughts.

Thanks again,

Jason