Done! Well... the front at least 
As part of the final (please let it be the final...) stages of our renovation we decided to repaint rather than re-clad the double garage.
It's around 20-years old, clad with compressed fibre cement weatherboard. The boards were in reasonably good condition, a few large gaps, and the timber trim was weathered but sound.
Just FYI... I used Dulux Weathershield in 'Natural White'. It is self-priming, so no undercoat needed, and I got excellent coverage over the old blue paint job from two coats.
So... here are a few tips for you if you're facing the same...
Prep was done by spraying with exterior surface cleaner then a wash-down with telescopic, hose-connected brush.
A 'delta' head fitted to a multi-tool is ideal for sanding timber trim and fiddly spots.
The easy way to get stubborn lids off plastic paint buckets! A knee firmly in the centre and peel one edge of the lid back.
Use a small brush to get into all corners and cracks before rolling but don’t do too many areas at once otherwise the brush-work will dry, and then show, before you can roll it smooth.
For longer areas set-up a plank (you can hire them) rather than constantly moving and climbing ladders. Note – this plank was 5m but it can only be used at a maximum span of 3m so I added a small step ladder as centre support.
For textured or contoured exterior surfaces use a long nap roller sleeve, nap is/are the filaments on the roller. This one was 15mm nap. Longer nap will work well on contours.
Use a smaller roller, here 100mm, for edges. This was a long nap too and you can see it conforming to the shape of the weatherboard. And don’t forget to use making tape where needed. It’s faster to mask than to fiddle around painting edges.
Do any gap sealing AFTER your first coat of undercoat or paint. You’ll find it much easier to see the gaps.
If you need to be using your gap sealer over an extended time and it’s a water-based product then put it in the shade with a damp cloth loosely wrapped around the nozzle when not in use.
