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Hi Varun (@arian10daddy),
It's great to hear that you've made progress on your decking project. I'd encourage you to use stainless steel deck screws over Climacoat. Climacoat screws are perfect for joining joists but would be considered less aesthetically pleasing than the stainless on a decking board.
I've laid a deck with Zenith 12G x 50mm Stainless Steel Self Drilling Decking Screws, and since they are self-drilling, it saved me loads of time. When fixing screws in hardwood, it's recommended to pre-drill a hole first. If you were happy to pre-drill, something like Zenith 8 - 10 x 50mm Stainless Steel Type 17 Decking Screws would also be adequate.
Both Square drive and Torx drive are significantly more resistant to their heads stripping out than Phillips drive. I've only ever chosen square drive before and have never had any issues with them, but I'd imagine you'd be happy with either as your choice.
All 8g, 10g and 12g decking screws will be adequate for the job. I generally like to use something slightly thicker than the 8g, so 10g would be my choice or the 12g self-drilling option. 50mm screws are also adequate, and personally, I feel the 65mm is a little over-kill. They have more holding force, but 50mm screws will be fine under general decking conditions.
If you are not pre-drilling and countersinking, then trim head screws can leave less distortion to the timber surface. Little ribs under the head expand the timber before the countersunk head being driven home. They give you a better finish than a standard head screw.
Please let me know if you need further assistance or have questions.
Mitchell
I apologise, Varun (@arian10daddy); I forgot to mention one other fixing method you might be interested in.
For the ultimate in concealed fixings, have a look at the Camo Hidden Deck Screw Guide. This allows you to place the screws on the edge of the boards instead of the face. You won't see any screws on your decking boards with this method.
Mitchell
I'm excited to see your finished results @arian10daddy.
Since Aquadeck is a water-based product, I would suggest you try to remove the stain on your deck lights with warm water and a toothbrush. Some dishwashing detergent added to the water could assist. You might also find that the coating can be scratched off the surface, but be careful not to mark your stainless steel in the process.
I am also disappointed to hear of your experience and apologise for the inconvenience caused. HPM has a smart exterior powerpoint that could control the deck lights and allow you to turn them on and off. Your current powerpoint would need to be replaced. Alternatively, there are the Valla deck lights that come with their own remote. They are also a 40mm light and should fit in the holes you have already made.
I'll reach out via PM for additional details and to help assist in solving this situation.
Mitchell
As promised, here are the pics.
The frame, painted with bitumen paint on the top. I had attached about 10 L-Brackets all around the frame.
The deck after 2 Aquadeck applications (from inside, looking out)
The deck (from outside, looking in.)
Tooting my own horn but I am very proud of the crisp lines and cuts. 
This is what I meant by the staining of the deck lights. This is supposed to be stainless steel.
Spectacular work Varun (@arian10daddy)! I particularly like your attention to detail. The way you've cut boards along their length to fill the sloping gap at the side of the deck is a work of art.
Congratulations on creating a thing of beauty. Now it time to sit back, sip some drinks and admire all your hard work.
Well done.
Mitchell
Some great advice there, @MalcolmSSS. I have experienced stainless screws snapping on me before, so I'll be trying your tip to reduce screw temperature. I did note the ones that had snapped were quite hot as I might not have drilled the pilot holes quite large enough.
Many thanks for contributing to the discussion.
Mitchell
