How to seal Eucalyptus wood?

[AnthonyBonello]

Hi!

I have an outdoor, 2 seater daybed that is made of eucalyptus wood and finished with a natural oil seal (presumably linseed). 

It is brand new. I want to seal it with a Polyurethane based finish as this particular piece, whilst quite nice to look at, is very susceptible to water damage.

What type of PU sealant (or otherwise) should I use. I was erring towards ‘Cabot’s Cabothane’ but couldn’t find any information about its water permeability. 

I had also been recommended Cabot’s Clear Satin Exterior Finish but it says it is not suitable for outdoor furniture. 

Thanks!

[BradN]

Hi @AnthonyBonello, and welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's great to have you here.

One of our resident D.I.Y. experts, @EricL, will be back on the site later today, and I'm sure he'll be able to give you good advice.

In the meantime, let me tag experienced community members @TedBear and @JoeAzza to see whether they have any suggestions.

Are you able to share a photo of your daybed? I'm sure we'd all be interested to see it.

Brad

[AnthonyBonello]

  

Hey! Thanks looking forward to hearing from them! 

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @AnthonyBonello  I would stay away from varnish type products out door s  in time they can peel and need  re sanding and re coating.

Where as  sikkens soaks into wood repeling water and when it needs re doing no peeling just reapply every 10 years or at need and it just soaks in reestablishing protection in my experiance.

Comes in  clear if you wish and or a stain colours too.

Sikkens Cetol Deck 1L Natural Timber Finish

Information source bunnings web site

I/N: 1580495

$57.20

Features

• Microporous allowing the timber to breathe while repelling unwanted moisture
• Satin finish
• UV and weather resistant
• Easy application
• Natural look. Wood grains remains visible after application

A highly water repellent, weather resistant, high build transparent coating for exterior timber decks and handrails.

For a natural look and extra hard-wearing premium UV protection and durability, 2 coats of Cetol Deck.

[EricL]

Hello @AnthonyBonello

It's great that you've received excellent advice from @Jewelleryrescue. Just to add to the suggestions already made, I recommend having a look at a water-based polyurethane sealer. If the current sealer on your outdoor furniture has started to wear thin, it's time for a  new coat. Generally, you'll need to sand down the chair and table making sure to remove the old sealer that was applied to the furniture's surface. All the sawdust will have to be removed with a brush and clean rag. Once the surface is clean you can begin repainting the furniture. I suggest using Cabot's 1L Gloss Water Based Cabothane Clear Polyurethane Timber Varnish. Being a water-based product it will not turn yellow like oil-based sealers.

Here is a handy step-by-step guide: How to restore wooden furniture

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[AnthonyBonello]

Thanks so much for taking the time to respond! 

The seat is brand new but as I understand it the oil finish it comes with is prone to bleeding and not resisting water well (moulds easily etc). A matter of aesthetics over functionality. 

In this case, could I use something like the Sikkens Citol to coat the furniture and prevent further damage. 

Is there any coating I can use that doesn’t require me to sand back the wood?

[Jewelleryrescue]

@AnthonyBonello  as you say furnature is new and is bleeding oil  thats the problem right  there.

I say one option is let it  furnature be outside on  some thing that will protect the floor from bleeding oil and  let nature wash that oil off let the timber weather for a  6 month or so or I wonder if soapy water like dish suds may help break down those oils.  Those oils are  a cheap and nasty  timber finish just painted on  to sell them and we  get stuck with fixing  the furnature  for the longer term.

Ideally that oil needs to go as @EricL  Polyurethane Timber Varnish. wont stick to  oily surface thats why he recommends sanding and is right to do so for his recommended products and I would use his products in doors with out hesitation.

Sikkens Citol acts like a oil in it own way as it soaks into the wood fiber to protect it.  it isnt a coating as such but if another oil is already applied it wont really soak in and do its job. See Attached Sikkens notes.

They also  meantioned wood cleaners Bunning may have to remove oils etc @EricL  and other team members might be able to advise on such products i havnt used them to date.

PHOTO see above  timber seat done sikkens 15+ year ago now I put heavy piles bricks those white tiles generally used  and abused that seat that sits outdoors 24/7 I will give timber a quick sand  to get abuse marks out of  seat no sikkens peeling though. The white is spilt  grout  for the  white marble tiles.

If it was my furnature I would wash if in suds ( maybe use a wood cleaner degreaser if  such a thing exists) dry the wood  them apply sikkens periodically and sand if you like to doing that 60-80 grit.  will help revel good wood and  allow  sikkens or Polyurethane to give maximum protection.

But Polyurethane will need  resanding in 5 to 10 years sikkens  just rebushes back on No  peeling or flaking of sikkens

I just check Sikkens application notes they are saying the oil needs to be removed first.

DECKING" OUTDOOR FURNITURE" SPA BATHS
Cetol HLS:
OR
Cetol Deck:
OR Cetol Deck Plus:
Apply 3 coats Cetol HLS in your choice of colour.
Apply I coat Cetol HLS, followed by 2 coats Cetol Deck for optimum
UV protection - colour 078 Natural (honey amber) only.
Apply I coat Cetol HLS, followed by 2 coats Cetol Deck Plus - for a
slip resistant finish.
Directions
• For added UV protection on decking we recommend the use of a darker shade than Cetol HLS
077 Natural - eg 006 Light Oak, 009 Dark Oak etc.
If a "natural" look is preferred, then 2 top coats of Cetol Deck or Cetol Deck Plus 078 Natural
would be the appropriate system to achieve maximum UV protection.
• On close grained timber like Jarrah, Batu etc allow at least 2 days drying time between coats to
ensure thorough hardening of the finish.
• Allow new timber to weather for as long as possible (a minimum of 3 to 6 months or until all
leaching of extractives has ceased). For slow drying timbers such as Spotted Gum, Yellow
Balau, Batu etc we recommend a minimum of 6 months. During this period regularly hose down
oily resinous timbers like Merbau (Kwila), Tallowood, Blackbutt etc to allow tannins and resins
to leach out. Then wipe down with a sharp solvent (eg Dulux Prepsol) or Mineral Turps to
degrease.
If the timber is greasy, weathered or shows signs of discolouration, clean surface with a solution
of Oxalic Acid (lOO grams) mixed with warm water (I litre) - or use a proprietary brand wood
cleaner (eg Dekswood by the Flood Co). Scrub the deck with this solution and rinse well with
water. Allow the deck to dry for several days prior to coating.
• For better adhesion, sand with 60 - 80 grit sandpaper and dust down. All dressed timber,
including dressed all round (D4S) must be sanded. Thoroughly abrade shiny or glazed surfaces
to aid the penetration and adhesion of the coating. Always sand along the grain and never
across.
• Use a long haired natural bristle brush and maintain a wet edge when painting. Apply coats
liberally.
• Do not over brush as this will thin the material film leading to an early breakdown of the
system.
• Do not apply to surfaces previously treated with oils, polyurethanes, waxes or spirit stains. See
your stockists for complete removal materials and methods.
• Wherever possible, all exposed end grain of timber should be coated with a liberal application
of Cetol HLS prior to fixing.
• Do not apply to hot or moist surfaces.
• To obtain the best results all coatings should be applied with the grain, not across the grain.
Paint along the length of the board to a natural break or join in the timber.
• Regularly apply a fresh coat around top of spa tubs where the end grain is exposed.
Note: Cetol HLS provides a hard scuff resistant finish, Cetol Deck and Cctol Dcck Plus are slightly
more so, NOT a scratch proof surfac~.

[TedBear]

Hi @AnthonyBonello , from my own experience, I agree with @Jewelleryrescue on this.

I bought some oiled outdoor timber furniture some years back and was annoyed that the clothing of my self and guests were stained by the oil.

I removed it from the furniture with turpentine and rags then used a marine grade polyurethane to coat it - it was much better in use, but it peeled in the weather and had to be sanded and recoated regularly (about 2-3years). 

The Sikkens outdoor furniture product sounds like it might be the one to go for... I would be concerned that there is a risk that the decking oil may stain your clothes as it designed for the harshness of being walked on, not touched, but I haven't used it.

[EricL]

Hi @AnthonyBonello

I'm afraid that sanding the furniture will be necessary. Having old and new sealers will cause either a patchy finish and any stain that you use will not get absorbed into the wood. To make it a bit easier for you, I suggest using a Ryobi 300W Random Orbital Sander or similar. It will shorten the time you need to sand the furniture down.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @TedBear   @AnthonyBonello  thanks for confirming polyurethane has a  medium to low  life span before peeling outdoors

Too disperse the oil in the timber a bunch of people used dish suds as it is designed to break down grease quickly,  some others also follow that up with  a white vinager wash down and timber drying.  Turps is oily in its self almost???  

After CleaningTest your furnature  with  a white cloth and see if it has  stopped leaching it should be ok to  paint it with sikkens then.  But we will never know whats on the timber when you bought it so @EricL  might be right the  sikkens my look  patchy if   old oily stuff  still present so please test sikkens on this on a hidden bit of furniture and see  what you think.  

Sikkens apply with  paint brush will need to dry for a few days I like to really slap it on  3 -4 times furnature feet as  this is where moisture will first  attack  timber furnature and its always good for 2nd coat every where else (I might re sikkens that timber in the  photo I showed you as a test for you. ASAP)  I can re apply and use white cloth and rub it so I can be sure its safe for your needs and to refresh first hand knowledge of it.  I have never being stained by sikkens i know of  todate but i didnt test for it  either so I should.

Sikkens soaks into timber grain as an oil would but it IS not oily and drys like polyurethane  and is high tech and highly uv and moisture resistant. My timber plank seat  still going 15 years  plus no signs of timber degrading  or sikkens failure and still has its  stain colour (I used a colour stain premixed  in the sikkens not the clear stuff its all the same) The best part is no sanding required to re sikkens,  but after 15 years i will hit it for a quick sand to get  scuff marks off timber.